Front outer CV boots torn....repair?

[{tpc}]

So I had the brake fluid changed out today, and it was shown to me that both my front outer CV boots were torn and leaking. Enough it has me worried because this is my daily driver. The question at this point is what if anything can or should I do to limp along until I can get it fixed, and how should I fix it?

The dealer quoted me $500 to replace the boots and another $42 for an alignment afterwards. Is this about right for the price and or would I be better off trying to attempt the repair myself?

I'm pretty handy once I get my nerve up, but my fear is that I get to the point where I am stuck for one reason or another and then I end up paying to have it towed to a dealer to complete the job.

I was going to run the truck through the car wash today, but I am thinking that might make the problem worse if the water washes off some of the grease? Any thoughts and help is greatly appreciated.

 

[Decembersend]

If I'm not mistaken the CV could end of binding up. I don't know if it's worth it to just replace the CV boot I just replaced my CV axel because the boot was leaking and it cost me around $60-$70.

I followed the how to on here step by step and it went fairly smoothly.

 

[Mooseman]

And you don't need an alignment after as you are not touching that at all unless he is actually talking about the rack and pinion boot. If it is the axle boot, who knows how long it's been like that and is already damaged so replacement is easier and probably cheaper in the long run.

 

[The_Roadie]

They make noise for a long time before they would ever bind up and depart the vehicle. I'd worry more if you're lifted, because then the outer CV joint is forced to flex on every wheel rotation. A stock vehicle keeps the CV joints pretty straight on purpose when at resting height and not in a turn.

 

[{tpc}]

Thanks guys for the information. The mechanic who did the brake fluid showed it to me personally as I asked him to throw it back on the lift so I could see it. It's definitely the axle boot. It's funny cause he kind of stumbled when I asked him how long it would take. He started to say an hour, then mid sentence switched it to an hour or so per side because he had to clean it all up.

I'm thinking I'll pick up new axles online, then get a quote from a local guy to install them. It's just had a wheel alignment, so if they don't have to remove the strut or something else that might cause it to need an alignment, that's good.

I can also ask my garage guy at work if it's something he feels good about helping me do, and maybe can skip the mechanic altogether.

 

[The_Roadie]

I change my occasional broken ones by the side of the trail, 20 miles from pavement, so it's not total rocket science. Most folks don't carry spares, though.

 

[{tpc}]

Roadie, do you replace the hub nut with a new one all the time? My stepson had a chiltons manual that says to replace it with a new one. Seems like overkill.

Also are you saying this could be done in the driveway? I mean if it's not that terrible, I'm willing to give it a shot. After doing the T stat and sensor on the voy...this almost sounds easy. I just want it to be done right.

 

[HARDTRAILZ]

I use the nut that comes w new CV.

 

[Sparky]

New CV axles come with a new nut.

You can definitely swap a CV axle in the driveway.

 

[The_Roadie]

Have you read any of the how-to articles?

http://forums.offroadtb.com/viewtopic.php?f=26&t=1255

I sometimes re-use my original 35mm nut, sometimes I use the new 36mm ones.

 

[HARDTRAILZ]

FYI...a 36 mm socket fits both axle nuts just fine. You only need to buy one socket.

 

[The_Roadie]

FYI...a 36 mm socket fits both axle nuts just fine. You only need to buy one socket.

Yah, I know that now after I bought the 35 years ago, and assumed they would all be 35 down the road. I guess I can sell my 35 now. Stupid aftermarket vendors must be in cahoots with the socket manufacturers.

 

[{tpc}]

I checked out the link. My issues arise from that most of the information is related trailblazers and envoys, not tahoes. I suppose the same ideas apply?

What kind of worries me now is that everything I have seen thus far involves removing the strut assembly and brake caliper. I'm not sure why though. Seems like you should be able to get everything out without doing all that? What am I missing?

My thoughts from earlier were that if you removed the strut, it messed with the alignment. My only real experience was replacing the struts on a friends cavalier from the 80's, and it definitely needed the alignment afterwards. I think we had to fiddle with it just so we could get it good enough to make it to the tire shop.

I also am having trouble with finding the axle assemblies online. Has anyone used partsgeek before? Is there someplace better to spend the money? Just looking at partsgeek there is like 11 separate assemblies you can buy. They all say fits 2007 tahoe, but are they all the same?

For instance the $44.35 cardone "new" one says: Supplied w/ Standard Neoprene Outboard Boot; without Protective Boot for Driveshaft.

But for $1 more or $45.35 you can get a "reman" cardone one that says: Supplied w/ Standard Neoprene Outboard Boot.

So why would you pay $1 for reman? Does reman come with a protective boot for the driveshaft? Why wouldn't a new one come with a '"protective" boot for the driveshaft?

Here is a link: http://www.partsgeek.com/catalog/2007/chevrolet/tahoe/driveshaft_-ar-_axle/axle_assembly.html

 

[Sparky]

Oh I was thinking of the wrong vehicle, sorry missed the Tahoe part

Still, your Tahoe does not have the same "strut" as your friend's car - technically it isn't a strut at all. There are upper and lower control arms, with ball joints and a spindle connecting them, all separate from the spring/shock. Not a strut. You can pull that spring/shock assembly out and not screw the alignment up.

Other than that I'd have to look into the exact process. I think from seeing someone with a Silverado (same chassis) that the CV bolts to the hub differently than the TB/Envoy, but it looked similar otherwise... I'll have to look at it again.

 

[{tpc}]

So I looked again, and pricewise rock auto beats the partsgeeks guys. They list a new part with a Heavy Duty outer protective boot for the same price as a standard one. It also shows me a part number that I also found on the axle itself. I called a local guy, and he pretty much doesn't want to do it with my parts, so apparently I'm on my own with this, or I'm paying through the nose. He didn't give me an exact price, but I'm guessing less than $500, more than $300.

Here are some pics of what its doing on the passenger side, which is worse than the drivers side. I have have a mind to cut off the old clamp clean it off and see just how bad the cut is, and throw a hose clamp around it. Then worry about it at a later date. Maybe try to pump some grease back into the small side before I put the clamp on it? What do you think?

The part that irritates me is that apparently I missed this both times I looked the vehicle over. Considering I turned the wheel both ways specifically to look at the axles, you would think I would have seen it. But maybe they cleaned it off and it reappeared or something.