Front End

[kdannyk]

Hi Everyone,
I need some experince help. Over 6 months ago when i had my oil changed at Firestone they told me that i needed my transmission oil chaged and the up bolt joint and both outer tierods. Since then I have changed the transmission oil :wootwoot: and put in a new filter :wootwoot: from a writeup i found on trailvoy. Last time i went for an oil change they didn't say anythnig about my transmission oil but they are hounding me on replacing my tierods and bolt joint. They said it would cost around $1000 . That seems really high to me. I'm curious on on how to check to see if it really needs to get replaced? If they do need to be what else i should look at replacing since i'm down there already.

 

[The_Roadie]

"Bolt joint" isn't a phrase that means anything to us. Could it have been "Ball joint"?

In general, there are a LOT of Youtube tutorials on how to inspect ball joints and tie rod ends, what they look like, etc.. At the simplest level, tight tie rod ends will keep the tire from moving if you hold it at the 3 and 9 o'clock positions and wiggle it. Ball joints keep the tire from moving if you wiggle it by holding it at the 12 and 6 o'clock positions. If you had really bad tie rod ends or ball joints, you should also feel it in sloppy steering, like you can't hold an accurate line driving down the street.

These should also be seen by the tech when you get an alignment done. Firestone is a chain where *some* (not all) locations have been known for crooked dealing and recommending unnecessary overpriced maintenance.

What's your mileage, maintenance history, and so forth on the vehicle? Pretend we're a new doctor getting your case history, so we know what's gone on in the past that might shed some light on how to proceed into the future. Have you ever had an alignment? Are you current on all other fluids, plugs, and coolant? What's your DIY mechanical ability and experience? Are you looking to do all the work yourself? Do you have a mentor to help? Are you needing advice how to find a trustworthy and competent independent mechanic on a site like Yelp?

 

[kdannyk]

Were to begin. I've owned my TB for 6 years now. Purchase it 2008 with around 60,000 miles on it. It currently has 110,000. When first had purchase the vehicle ther were some issue that i didn't notice at the dealer. One of the issues was that when i drove at nights my one head light would bounce around. When i took a look at i saw that the header panel that held everything in place was crack and the back of the head light to hold the light on was cracked. I ended up buying new Halogent lights to replace the stock ones and bought a new header panel. While i was at i put after stock grill on but that only last for 4 months before a pheasent took it out. Some time during the first winter i owened it had a check engine light on. I don't remeber what the code was but i ended up having to replace the thermastat to fix it. I believe it was stuck open. I replaced the thermastat my self. After i replaced i went to my mechanic at the time and had them do a cooldent flush. The next Item i ended up replacing was the blower motor resistor. My fan speed would only work on a low. I'm still having some issue with the connectors melting with in a year but i plan on sodering the ends and using shrink wrap for a better connection. If that doesn't work i'm going to replace the blower motor resistor and the blower motor. I also did that my self. For got to menton when i first purchase the vehichle i replaced the the air filter. I had my mechanice replace all the spark plugs. I'm not sure why i had him do it since i was capable of doing it but i was young and dumb at the time. I replaced the serpatine belt my self. Last summer was when i did the most technical maintance to my vehicle. I ended up replacing the transmission fluid and put in a new filter. I was expecting to see a bunch of sludge and metal shaving but it quite clean. I also replace the fluids in the front differential. I was going to do the rear differentials and the transfer case but i coudn't get the plugs out. I do oil changes every 3,000 miles. I get my wheels rotated almost every time i get an oil change. I had my fuel sensor go out but chevy had a recall on that. I know i have electrical issue some where in my truck. Ounce in a while when i'm driving it the truck's voltage will drop and the trucks seems to loose all for an instance then it comes back. I do a little bit of towing but not much and every thing i've town has been 2,000 lbs or less.

 

[ddgm]

Big issue here is the transfer case. The fluid MUST be replaced every 50K or you're going to have some really bad news as you're probably way over due, unless the previous owner did it at the recommended interval. If that is the case, then you are only slightly over due. In any event you should change it ASAP. And everything the roadie said.

Doug

 

[kdannyk]

Does anyone know what size allen i need for it? The main reason why i didn't change is due to not having the correct size tool?

 

[IllogicTC]

Pretty sure it's 10mm hex. You can use an allen or get a hex bit for your ratchet.

 

[The_Roadie]

And the rear diff fill plug uses a 3/8" square drive just like a ratchet extension, although there are hardened ones you can buy that have a lower risk of spinning in the recess and damaging it. Diff fill plugs can be easy, or they can be a horribly frustrating project to get out.

As always, make sure you can remove the FILL plug before you remove the drain plug or the diff cover to drain it.

Mysterious engine RPM drops at idle are often a dirty throttle body. We have an article on how to clean it. Mysterious enring RPM drops while driving along may be the notoriously flaky ignition switch. They're relatively cheap and easy to swap. Anything more is going to take some detailed troubleshooting and possible shotgunning to figure it out, depending on if it happens seldom or often.