For those that have emissions testing...

Discussion in 'LS2 6.0L V8' started by Boricua SS, Nov 30, 2014.

  1. Boricua SS

    Boricua SS Well-Known Member

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    I know this is a long shot here, but figured I'd give it a shot. I already posted this on SS owners since this specifically pertains to the SS platform and Long Tube headers... but for those who have emissions testing in your county/state...

    For those that have Long Tube headers and have the catted Y-pipe, how did your emission testing go? Did you pass? Did you fail? If you failed, what specifically made you fail?

    Here in Ohio, there are only 7 counties that test for emissions and I happen to live in one of them. The way they test here is they "visually" inspect for cats on the vehicle by having 1 or 2 techs walking around the vehicle with mirrors on like a broom handle and they place them underneath the vehicle. Next, if your vehicle is a 1996 or newer, they plug their computer into your OBDII port and read your computer from there. From what I gather, they are checking to see if you've had any recent CEL's and that's it. If, for any reason, they can see that you've recently cleared a CEL or they see that the system is "not ready" they will automatically fail you. This is from the Ohio E-Check website...

    Why would a vehicle fail an OBD II test?

    ◾Malfunctioning catalytic converter
    ◾Faulty gas cap
    ◾Fuel system malfunction
    ◾Incorrect ignition timing
    ◾Malfunctioning air injection system
    ◾Misrouted vacuum lines
    ◾Contaminated engine oil
    ◾Faulty positive crankcase ventilation (PCV) system or exhaust gas re-circulation (EGR) system


    And here is what they mean by "Not Ready"

    What does "not ready" mean?

    A service technician will turn off the dashboard "check engine" light after most repairs. This resets the vehicle's emission system components to "not ready". The status remains "not ready" until the vehicle's computer has had adequate time to review the repaired component. This happens after the vehicle is driven for a period of time established by the manufacturer.

    If the vehicle's emissions system status is "not ready" when it is presented at the E-Check station during the initial test cycle, a tailpipe emissions test may be conducted. As of January 1, 2013, 2005 and newer model year vehicles will not be permitted to downgrade to the tailpipe test.

    If the vehicle is transferred to another test type, the vehicle must remain on the different test track until the vehicle passes the emissions test or receives a waiver. For example, if the vehicle undergoes an OBD II test and fails, it cannot be downgraded to a tailpipe test on a re-test; the vehicle must pass the OBD II test.

    For initial and subsequent tests, if a dashboard light is on when the vehicle is presented at the E-Check station, the vehicle will fail the test.


    So with all that said, with the rear O2 sensors being tuned out and getting a dyno/street tune, do any of you think that I would have problems passing my Emissions tests with Long tube headers and a catted y-pipe?
     
  2. Mooseman

    Mooseman Moderator

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    It might depend on how the post-cat O2 sensors were tuned out. Although they might not throw a code, the PCM may not show ready for that system. The other thing is that if the techs know there should be post-cat sensors, they may fail you visually.

    Do you have a code reader that shows I/M Readiness? A Bluetooth adapter with Torque will do that.
     
  3. Boricua SS

    Boricua SS Well-Known Member

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    Yea I have bluetooth and the tprque app, I also have an aeroforce gauge. But I talked to the local echeck garage and it has been confirmed that as long as I have the proper tune, and they can visually see a cat or cats, then I'll pass. :yes:
     
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  4. Matt

    Matt Silver Supporter

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    So does that mean that you can gut them? :biggrin:
     
  5. BlazingTrails

    BlazingTrails Banned

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    :yes:
     
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  6. Boricua SS

    Boricua SS Well-Known Member

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    I can gut them but... it all depends on the tune and im not that trusting yet. I was quoted $750 from the local performance shop to do a dyno tune. I told them to kick rocks. I'll for over that kinda money when im fully built and need a realllly good dialed in tune for all the mods.
     

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