Fan Clutch Nightmares

[98STRider]

Welcome to my nightmares...
Two years ago I needed to change out the temp sensor and when I did I also changed the T-Stat and water pump. Fan clutch seemed to be ok so left it in there. Apparently I didn't clean under the T-Stat well enough and the damn thing started leaking. Took it all apart, cleaned the debris and new O-Ring and back together. This time the water pump bearings were going again so changed it out as well. Seems the bearing on the clutch were taking them out so decided to change the clutch with a new one, Korean Eristic from eBay. Looked good but after all that assembly it sounded like jet taking off. Played around trying to get it to work but it just wouldn't release. Another aftermarket, this time a new Dorman and it seems to have released just fine as the jet roar is gone now. BUT, now my A/C doesn't work and blows hot air. I also noticed the temp doesn't seem to get to normal operating temps. Could there be an air lock from changing the T-Stat and the sensor is playing tricks with the ECM?

I wish I would have checked here first damn it but I have serious health issues keeping me from functioning as I have in the past. It just seemed like an easy in/out...

 

[Mooseman]

Hayden is the brand recommended here for fan clutches. But, the Dorman might be working. To check it, look at this thread for testing procedure:
How to test the electro-viscous fan clutch
http://gmtnation.com/forums/threads/how-to-test-the-electro-viscous-fan-clutch.12497/
Your A/C not working is probably not related as it would still work. It would have poorer performance at idle if the fan was in question. While moving, you would get enough natural air movement to cool it.

If it's overcooling, I would assume the t-stat is stuck open. What brand was it? For t-stat and water pump, ACDelco is recommended. Also, when changing the t-stat, it's also recommended to replace the temp sensor since it's right there and has been known to fail. Don't wait to fix a cool running engine as this will kill your cat.

 

[98STRider]

Hayden is the brand recommended here for fan clutches.

Yeah, saw that too late.

Your A/C not working is probably not related as it would still work.[/QUOTE]
I was actually consulting a different website forum and they said to put power to the solonoid valve to try and break loose whatever is blocking it. I did that by sending 12 volts to it directly from the battery. You could hear it opening and closing but it still wouldn't empty. BTW That connection would keep the car running until I pulled it off the battery.

If it's overcooling, I would assume the t-stat is stuck open. What brand was it?

I got the T-Stat from NAPA two years ago so whoever their suppliers are. Will go ahead and order an AC/Delco as recommended.

Also, when changing the t-stat, it's also recommended to replace the temp sensor since it's right there and has been known to fail.

That was what started me down this road in the very first place. I'm old school, go to store, get OEM part, install and forget about it. Not these days with all the Chinese parts & knock-offs. I bought the new sensor, put it in and reassembled everything to find it was a bad sensor.

So, tomorrow I'll go for a ride to warm it up and try the rag trick...

 

[98STRider]

New Water Pump is a Gates brand. Was considerably better built than what I took out (Car Quest).

 

[Mooseman]

I was actually consulting a different website forum and they said to put power to the solonoid valve to try and break loose whatever is blocking it. I did that by sending 12 volts to it directly from the battery. You could hear it opening and closing but it still wouldn't empty. BTW That connection would keep the car running until I pulled it off the battery.

I'm completely confused. Please point me to this other forum post as this makes no sense to me for A/C operation.

New Water Pump is a Gates brand. Was considerably better built than what I took out (Car Quest).

Gates isn't really any better. I had one, lasted just over a year. Went with an ACDelco, been good 4 years now.

 

[littleblazer]

I'm completely confused. Please point me to this other forum post as this makes no sense to me for A/C operation.



Gates isn't really any better. I had one, lasted just over a year. Went with an ACDelco, been good 4 years now.

I think it means if you can force 100% lock and ac gets better... I think. You know to see if it actually is commanding a lock up instead of moving and nothing happening at all?

As for the water pump... my pep boys house special is going on six years with no issue... until I probably post this. Had I known at the time I would've gotten oem but it was fogging up the windshield from the leak.

 

[98STRider]

I think it means if you can force 100% lock and ac gets better... I think. You know to see if it actually is commanding a lock up instead of moving and nothing happening at all?

As for the water pump... my pep boys house special is going on six years with no issue... until I probably post this. Had I known at the time I would've gotten oem but it was fogging up the windshield from the leak.

I'm completely confused. Please point me to this other forum post as this makes no sense to me for A/C operation.

Gates isn't really any better. I had one, lasted just over a year. Went with an ACDelco, been good 4 years now.

Sorry, I meant it to mean the fan clutch and not the A/C system. This all started with the fan clutch and I'm still not certain of its operation.

 

[Mooseman]

Uh, something missing in your post?

 

[gmcman]

If you're ECT sensor wire connection isn't fully seated then the fan will default to being fully engaged. Just something to check.

 

[98STRider]

So, haven't been able to get much done the past couple weeks, new medication has me in na na land and I can't even drive.
But, last weekend I did manage to install a new fan clutch (Hayden 3200). Now, this one isn't locked up all the time but it doesn't lock up at all and still no A/C and no codes. So, if the ECU isn't seeing the correct warm engine temp if the T-Stat isn't closing (I have a new thermostat but didn't install it yet) will that keep the AC from working?

 

[Mooseman]

No. A/C should work regardless. Try shorting the low pressure switch connector to see if the compressor kicks on. If it does, check system pressure. If it's low, that's your problem. If not, then the switch is bad.

 

[98STRider]

Thanks for all the help Mooseman, it is indeed a low pressure problem. Question is, how did it get that way as it worked fine before I touched it. Sure hope I didn't create a leak. So, at least I know the fan clutch isn't the problem now.

 

[Mooseman]

Could just be a coincidence that a leak developed somewhere. May need a UV light to find it or a leak detector. $50 at HF. Worth its weight in gold.

Or it was just low from time as systems do leak a little over a long time. If the A/C was never touched or refilled, that could be it. If there is still some residual pressure, refill it and see if it holds. If the pressure is 0, it's a real leak.

 

[98STRider]

Could just be a coincidence that a leak developed somewhere. May need a UV light to find it or a leak detector. $50 at HF. Worth its weight in gold.

Well, damn if it wasn't low on 134a ! At least preliminarily.

Or it was just low from time as systems do leak a little over a long time. If the A/C was never touched or refilled, that could be it. If there is still some residual pressure, refill it and see if it holds. If the pressure is 0, it's a real leak.

It wasn't MT thankfully and ended up putting in two cans of refrigerant to bring me right up to where I need to be. Now to drive it a bit to see iffin there's a leak. What a PIA with coincidences!
Thanks Again Mooseman, you saved me a ton...