I keep seeing people say to upgrade their 05 and under rear wiper to the 06 and up wiper. What is the difference between the 2? the reason I ask is because I have an 05 and I have an opportunity to get an 06 wiper.
difference rear wipers
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Sparky
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- Dec 4, 2011
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The first is appearance. Some say the newer one also works better. I only had the older style that worked OK with a decent blade (had to lubricate the hinge on occasion), so I can't say for sure.
I think that 07 was actually the first year for that newer rear wiper though. 06 was still the same as before. I think.
I think that 07 was actually the first year for that newer rear wiper though. 06 was still the same as before. I think.
ah, OK. It was 07 and not 06. I have to replace the motor in mine anyway, I may as well go with the 06 wiper.
Mooseman
Moderator
Delete it, like me.... 
The later year rear wiper design is far better and makes much better contact with the rear window surface vs. the ugly earlier design.
The later year rear wiper design is far better and makes much better contact with the rear window surface vs. the ugly earlier design.
Delete it, like me....
The later year rear wiper design is far better and makes much better contact with the rear window surface vs. the ugly earlier design.
you wouldn't be able to point me to a how-to for deleting it would you? I don't want to just dive in and rip the back panel off because I didn't know something.
never mind the last reply, I put in an 05 Envoy wiper motor today. man that sucked getting that plastic nut off. It still won't squirt fluid though, anybody know what that could be? And by the way, I was reading somewhere about draining the transfer case fluid, the hex socket required is an 8mm not a 10mm. spray a little pb blaster on both and wait about 5 minutes before you try to get them off though.
Sparky
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- Dec 4, 2011
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8mm? Weird, mine was a 10mm.
Does the washer motor run when you hit the washer button? Maybe the pump is shot.
If it runs and pumps fluid, start checking the hoses leading back there. A semi-common failure point is a check valve inside the lift gate, that if it breaks it sprays the fluid in the gate instead of on the window!
Does the washer motor run when you hit the washer button? Maybe the pump is shot.
If it runs and pumps fluid, start checking the hoses leading back there. A semi-common failure point is a check valve inside the lift gate, that if it breaks it sprays the fluid in the gate instead of on the window!
yep, I bought a 10mm hex socket just for the purpose of changing out the transfer case fluid and it was too big to fit in the fill or the drain plug. I picked up an 8mm today, but I haven't had a chance to test it out yet. We just swapped out the motors today. The arm works fine, just when you hit the center button for the fluid to spray, nothing happens. The front works fine and sprays. But it's like no fluid is reaching the back at all.
Wooluf1952
Member
Mooseman
Moderator
sorry I didn't respond sooner, I just didn't get a chance to check it until now. OK, when I push the wiper fluid button for the back, the rear wiper does move, but no fluid. I stand by the front of the truck near the air box while someone pushes the button for the fluid and I can hear the motor go, but no fluid. I'm thinking maybe I have a block in the line some where. That means I have to take off the air box and blow some air into the tube. Why couldn't they locate the fluid bottle and pump somewhere that's easy to get to?
Tiggerr
Member
Make sure it's not spraying all over inside the liftgate... that's what mine did... line popped off inside the gate...IIRC they route that damn line thru the roof inside the truck to the back...remember thinking it would be PITA to get to if I had to... before I discovered the line popped in the gate
Make sure too the pump is pumping the fluid out of the reservoir...sometimes they can run and make noise but not actually pump anything....
Make sure too the pump is pumping the fluid out of the reservoir...sometimes they can run and make noise but not actually pump anything....
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I had the back panel off the other day when I changed out the motors and it was bone dry. so it looks like there's no fluid at all getting back there. Once I get the air box off, I'll switch the hoses and see if the front pump will push the fluid out to the back and then go from there.
Sparky
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- Dec 4, 2011
- 12,927
Up on the inside of the passenger fender you can see both fluid lines running along, with a rubber coupling on each one. You could disconnect the one going to the rear and hit the button again to see if you get fluid spraying out of the disconnected line. If you don't, then you know the issue is isolated to the front (clogged pump pickup, failed impeller on the pump, etc).
oh wow, nice. I did see that today and I just thought it was a clamp, I didn't know it was a coupler. That is really good to know, thank you.
alright, so we kind of narrow it down. when you take off the top trim, there is a boot on the driver's side, inside that boot is another coupler. For whatever reason, the previous owner had it disconnected. So we got that fixed and then when I pushed the button, the fluid shot straight out and into the back seat. when I looked up close, I noticed that there is a plug or something missing from this spot. Can any of you guys identify it and let me know what's supposed to go there?
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Sparky
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- Dec 4, 2011
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That's the check valve that commonly breaks. It is there to keep the fluid primed in the line, but, you could just pull that out and put a regular double barb in to connect the two hoses together. Just means it'll take a second or two for the fluid to spray on the glass.
thanks for the help again. Now that I have the part identified, I did a search and I came up with this part. It looks to be about the same thing, but amazon.com is saying that it's not compatible, I'm not sure why. Do you think it will work, or is there an actual part number for it?
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0013FBRFI/?tag=gmtnation-20
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0013FBRFI/?tag=gmtnation-20
Sparky
Member
- Dec 4, 2011
- 12,927
Can't really trust Amazon's fitment guide. One of the reviews even said he used it in the rear. But for something like that, any basic check valve with the right size barbs would work fine.
Mooseman
Moderator
And one of the reviews talks about using it for the front. I have the delay problem on the Saab so I should get one of these. I'm cheap so I'll raid a few at the yard on my next trip.
This one came up as fitting our trucks. It's the same one used for eons and rarely fail.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00FAM6EYE/?tag=gmtnation-20
This one came up as fitting our trucks. It's the same one used for eons and rarely fail.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00FAM6EYE/?tag=gmtnation-20
Just a late update on my progress. I got the motor changed out and the check valve installed, now I have a new issue, LOL. when I run the rear wiper, it totally misses the center of the window. it hits the right and left side, but leaves a big skipper in the middle. Any idea about how to fix this now? I do really appreciate all the help you guys give. The search box has helped with a ton of issues so far, if not, you would have seen about 100 different questions from me by now.
It's a used arm, the same one that was installed on it at the factory. Do you mean the plastic nut might be on too tight?
Sparky
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- Dec 4, 2011
- 12,927
The hinge should move freely and not be stiff at all, otherwise the spring won't be able to maintain proper blade contact with the glass.
I had to spray mine with stuff every so often and work it to keep it moving freely. It would start missing swaths of the glass when that hinge would stiffen up.
I had to spray mine with stuff every so often and work it to keep it moving freely. It would start missing swaths of the glass when that hinge would stiffen up.
I know it's something I did when I reassembled it. when it did work, it went half way across the back glass hitting the middle. I will try to loosen it a little to see if that's what I did, made it too tight.
