- Dec 12, 2011
- 4,656
I'm sure there are a few ways to do this, but when I bled my brakes last I wanted to cycle the ABS since this may or may not release any trapped air bubbles within the ABS pump but seems that the consensus is when the ABS is applied the brakes sometimes feel "better" or have a harder pedal.
Perform this at your own risk, and be gentle on the drivetrain. The sole purpose is to gently accelerate the tires to a low speed then apply the brakes, don't aggressively rev the engine or try change from forward to reverse or even remove from a forward gear until you are certain all the wheels have stopped rotating.
With all 4 wheels off the ground, I supported the front by the lower control arms, this jack position works best for me, and used a floor jack for the rear diff. A safer alternative is a jack stand under each axle tube but for the sake of this thread I used the floor jack.
With all 4 wheels supported, I lightly clamped the LF brake line...this should give you 1 or 2 stops before the wheel becomes stationary from the trapped fluid. You want the wheel to slow down at a lower rate than the rest, maybe of you clamped it shut it would still work but I didn't try that. Just don't accelerate the wheels with one not moving.
With the trans in park or neutral, engage 4WD, don't place in gear yet and either you or a buddy, rotate one of the front tires until the disconnect engages, should take a half turn or so as the opposite tire will rotate in an opposite direction once engaged.
Place in gear and accelerate gently until 20-30 mph then apply the brakes. After the first stop, the clamped tire may not rotate, if so don't repeat until you release the fluid to avoid the front diff from being worked too hard.
I bled my brakes first, then performed this method, and bled again.
Perform this at your own risk, and be gentle on the drivetrain. The sole purpose is to gently accelerate the tires to a low speed then apply the brakes, don't aggressively rev the engine or try change from forward to reverse or even remove from a forward gear until you are certain all the wheels have stopped rotating.
With all 4 wheels off the ground, I supported the front by the lower control arms, this jack position works best for me, and used a floor jack for the rear diff. A safer alternative is a jack stand under each axle tube but for the sake of this thread I used the floor jack.
With all 4 wheels supported, I lightly clamped the LF brake line...this should give you 1 or 2 stops before the wheel becomes stationary from the trapped fluid. You want the wheel to slow down at a lower rate than the rest, maybe of you clamped it shut it would still work but I didn't try that. Just don't accelerate the wheels with one not moving.
With the trans in park or neutral, engage 4WD, don't place in gear yet and either you or a buddy, rotate one of the front tires until the disconnect engages, should take a half turn or so as the opposite tire will rotate in an opposite direction once engaged.
Place in gear and accelerate gently until 20-30 mph then apply the brakes. After the first stop, the clamped tire may not rotate, if so don't repeat until you release the fluid to avoid the front diff from being worked too hard.
I bled my brakes first, then performed this method, and bled again.