Coolant Flush

RTTBLT1

Original poster
Member
Jan 25, 2016
512
Louisburg, KS
Hello, everyone.

This weekend I was going to do a Coolant Flush on the TB for the first time cause IMO the fluid is not looking that great.

The Coolant in the Reservoir is nice and Orange like it should be but the Coolant in the Radiator is a Green-ish/Brown-ish color.

I know there is no Drain Peacock on the Radiator and I must remove the Lower Radiator Hose to Drain the system. And according to my Chilton manual the only way to Flush the system is to fill with clean water, run the engine for 30 min, shut off and allow to cool, then Drain the system in till the water runs clear.

I'm use to the old way... Drain the Radiator, remove the Thermostat and Upper Radiator Hose, then running water in the Upper Radiator Hose Inlet till it comes out clear thur the Upper Hose on the Engine side.

I would like to do a through Flush...Flushing the Radiator, Engine Block, all Heater Hoses/Pipes and both Heater Cores.

So my questions are...

1. Does removing the T-Stat Drain most if not all the Coolant in the Engine Block?

2. Can I use a Flushing Tee to Flush the Heater Hoses/Pipes and both Heater Cores?

3. Does anyone recommend replacing the Coolant Temperature Sensor (CTS), Water Pump and or the Radiator Cap when doing this service?

I plan to replace the T-Stat with a OEM AC Delco since I will be removing it and also Refilling with Dex-cool (not pre-mixed 50/50) and Distilled Water.

* Additional info:
Current miles: 170k Miles
EXT Model with rear heat
Coolant may or may not be original/factory

Any tips/tricks or input would be greatly appreciated.
 

hockeyman

Member
Aug 26, 2012
726
I'd recommend replacing the coolant sensor only because it's not that expensive and you're going to have direct access to it anyhow once you pull the thermostat.

You'll need an 18mm wrench to remove/install it. Some have used a crows foot, but I used a standard wrench since the alternator was removed and I have the extra room to maneuver.

Not sure about your other questions, but I did have a LOT more coolant drain from the block once I removed the thermostat.
 
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Mooseman

Moderator
Dec 4, 2011
25,260
Ottawa, ON
To flush the rear heater properly, you'll have to turn on the rear heat so the valve will open and circulate the coolant out.

Chrisfix has a couple of good videos. First one is
How to Quick Flush Your Cars Cooling System

Second one is
How to SUPER FLUSH your Cars Cooling System

He does it the long way with collecting the flush water. In the old days, we would collect and properly dispose the old coolant, remove the thermostat, put a hose in the radiator and turn on the water, filling the system, run the engine and flush until it runs clear.

Only problem on these trucks is the thermostat is integral to the outlet housing so you have to gut the thermostat if you want to flush it. Since you're replacing the thermostat anyway, it doesn't matter what you do to it.

If you want to make your life a lot easier while refilling and burping the system with coolant, get yourself one of these funnels (or similar):
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00A6AS6LY/?tag=gmtnation-20
 

RTTBLT1

Original poster
Member
Jan 25, 2016
512
Louisburg, KS
Thanks for the feedback.

My main concerns is...

1. Leaving very little to no old/used Coolant in the system including the Heater Hoses/Pipes and both Heater Cores.

2. Leaving very little to no plain water in the system including Heater Hoses/Pipes and both Heater Cores.

I know how to do what was shown in the videos but did learn a few tips/tricks from them. Thank you for the links.

Few more questions...

1. I would like to attach a section of clear hose to each Heater Core, to see the results as I work and to Flush both individually...does anyone know which Hoses/Pipes at the Firewall are the Inlet and Outlet for the front & rear Heater Core(s)?

2. Since the Alternator has to be removed to access the T-Stat...and after removing the T-Stat from the Housing and bolted back on...can i do the Flush with the Engine off?...
 

Wooluf1952

Member
Nov 20, 2011
2,663
Milwaukee, Wisconsin
Since the coolant in the engine is green/brown and the reservoir is orange/red, I would definitely change the radiator cap.
 
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Mooseman

Moderator
Dec 4, 2011
25,260
Ottawa, ON
You can still run the engine without the alternator for a little while. Just put a charger on the battery afterwards.

I really don't know which hose is what but I would assume the one going to the shut off valve is hot coolant going to the rear heater core.

I don't know if it will be possible to get all the water out completely without disconnecting some hoses or removing block plugs.
 
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Mounce

Member
Mar 29, 2014
13,667
Tuscaloosa, AL
When I done the thermostat the other day I figured it would pretty much drain the whole system and planned accordingly with two gallons of full strength coolant ready to be mixed but it barely took one gallon of straight coolant and 3/4 gallon of water. Have added to it once or twice since then as the bubbles come out.

Moral of my story, I'm not sure where the majority of the coolant is held in these. I assumed the block and radiator but didn't even take half of the capacity that I had found listed.
 
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RTTBLT1

Original poster
Member
Jan 25, 2016
512
Louisburg, KS
Ok, i will be getting on Rockauto in the next few days and ordering: New T-Stat & Housing, Radiator Cap and Coolant Temperature Sensor (CTS). And of course swinging by Wally World for a few gallons of Dex-cool & Distilled Water. And will see if I can purchase the Funnel thur Rockauto as well, if not be ordering that off Amazon too. Thanks for tip on the Funnel @Mooseman!

I already have all the Drain Containers needed to recycle the old/used Coolant and a Prestone Flushing Tee Kit...just used all of it to replace the Radiator in my Impala.

What's everyone thoughts on using plain water from the hose to do the Flush vs using Distilled Water?...my final mix will be 50/50- Dex-cool & Distilled Water either way.

If anyone has anything to add to this Thread, I'm all ears.

Thanks everyone.
 

Mooseman

Moderator
Dec 4, 2011
25,260
Ottawa, ON
I think as long as it's not well water, it should be fine. Maybe do a last flush with distilled and fill with pure Dexcool. Might wind up with a 50% or 60% mix. Most you'd want is 70%.
 
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RTTBLT1

Original poster
Member
Jan 25, 2016
512
Louisburg, KS
I think as long as it's not well water, it should be fine. Maybe do a last flush with distilled and fill with pure Dexcool. Might wind up with a 50% or 60% mix. Most you'd want is 70%.

Lol...well water.

I really would like to disconnect the Hoses at the front and rear Heater Cores to do a back Flush till clear then a Flush the correct way as the Coolant is suppose to flow. And afterwards filling both Heater Cores with the proper Dex-cool & Distilled Water mix and then doing the rest of the Coolant System. This is how I did it on my 06 Impala before replacing the Radiator, T-Stat and Cap.

If anyone knows in the rear (just above rear bumper) what is the Inlet & Outlet for the Heater Core, possibly with pictures (for both front & rear), would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks again everyone, i appreciate all the feedback.
 

Mooseman

Moderator
Dec 4, 2011
25,260
Ottawa, ON
Years ago I replaced the rear heater core but I have no idea which hose is which. Maybe run the rear heat on full speed and see which hose is hotter than the other.
 

RTTBLT1

Original poster
Member
Jan 25, 2016
512
Louisburg, KS
Ok, I will use the info/tips I received here an of course some i already knew to tackle this service this weekend.

I'm a younger guy but always ready to hear others advice on something before tearing into it. I have also always been a picture/video/illustration guy when it comes to a repair and like to get it right the first time.

Thanks everyone! :2thumbsup:
 
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AzTruckGuy

Member
Dec 1, 2015
501
scottsdale, az
Well not to start another thread on this since I have replace a thermostat for failing....What do you guys think of this?

Rad.JPG

I have the AC Delco thermostat already just waiting on the upper and lower hoses to get here, no issues with them but at 96k thought I would replace them anyways. Not sure what was put in the radiator (that cup was dirty so the fluid is clean) but I was thinking of doing a flush, but after reading the posts on here, seems I just maybe better off just draining, refilling with distilled water, then draining and refilling with proper 50/50 mix? The issues I was having is the TB ran too cool and wouldn't hit 190-210 area, only after having the AC on for a while would it be in that range
 

Mooseman

Moderator
Dec 4, 2011
25,260
Ottawa, ON
Unless there is a colour issue with the camera or my screen, that looks pink. It should be orange. I have seen "universal" type coolants that is yellowish that is supposedly compatible with all types of coolants but that looks weird to me. Pink is usually an antifreeze for plumbing.
 

AzTruckGuy

Member
Dec 1, 2015
501
scottsdale, az
Unless there is a colour issue with the camera or my screen, that looks pink. It should be orange. I have seen "universal" type coolants that is yellowish that is supposedly compatible with all types of coolants but that looks weird to me. Pink is usually an antifreeze for plumbing.

I got it from sister and her husband who tend to take care of their vehicles. Yeah I don't know why it looks pinkish, but its clean and smells like anit-freeze
 

RTTBLT1

Original poster
Member
Jan 25, 2016
512
Louisburg, KS
Well, I didn't get around to the Coolant Flush like I was wanting...went and installed a new Hot Water Heater at mom's and got to messing around with the family. But I plan to do it soon, good thing the TB is not a DD.

I got it from sister and her husband who tend to take care of their vehicles. Yeah I don't know why it looks pinkish, but its clean and smells like anit-freeze

Hello, after reading your post, I would highly recommend Flushing your Coolant System. I have never seen that color in a Coolant System. And i would also recommend replacing the T-Stat (again), Coolant Temperature Sensor (CTS) and Radiator Cap after the Flush.

I have been doing some research on Flushing this System throughly since I am soon to do mine and maybe able to assist.

Are you working on a Standard/SWB (5-seater) or a EXT/LWB (7-seater) Model?
 
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AzTruckGuy

Member
Dec 1, 2015
501
scottsdale, az
Well, I didn't get around to the Coolant Flush like I was wanting...went and installed a new Hot Water Heater at mom's and got to messing around with the family. But I plan to do it soon, good thing the TB is not a DD.



Hello, after reading your post, I would highly recommend Flushing your Coolant System. I have never seen that color in a Coolant System. And i would also recommend replacing the T-Stat (again), Coolant Temperature Sensor (CTS) and Radiator Cap after the Flush.

I have been doing some research on Flushing this System throughly since I am soon to do mine and maybe able to assist.

Are you working on a Standard/SWB (5-seater) or a EXT/LWB (7-seater) Model?

The T-stat needs to be replaced since its failing, I haven't done it since I am waiting for the upper and lower hoses. I own a standard SWB.

I have also researched the flush, the issues some have is, the seals tend to leak after the flush. I have no such issues that I know of, its just something to think about if doing a flush. I have the 15lb cap, the CTS seems to be fine, since I am not taking off the alternator and going through the wheel well to change out the T-Stat, I don't want to take off the S-belt. My S-Belt was changed out about 6 months, before I got it. There becomes a point, where you start playing the lets throw money at parts game. I've seen posts if your going to change out the T-Stat, then change the following parts as well Coolant Temperature Sensor (CTS) and Radiator Cap, Water Pump, etc.
I already have issues with the TB and threw some money at parts chasing a stall issue, that didn't get resolved.
The TB has been good, but theres just some parts that seem to fail more then others.
 

RTTBLT1

Original poster
Member
Jan 25, 2016
512
Louisburg, KS
The T-stat needs to be replaced since its failing, I haven't done it since I am waiting for the upper and lower hoses. I own a standard SWB.

I have also researched the flush, the issues some have is, the seals tend to leak after the flush. I have no such issues that I know of, its just something to think about if doing a flush. I have the 15lb cap, the CTS seems to be fine, since I am not taking off the alternator and going through the wheel well to change out the T-Stat, I don't want to take off the S-belt. My S-Belt was changed out about 6 months, before I got it. There becomes a point, where you start playing the lets throw money at parts game. I've seen posts if your going to change out the T-Stat, then change the following parts as well Coolant Temperature Sensor (CTS) and Radiator Cap, Water Pump, etc.
I already have issues with the TB and threw some money at parts chasing a stall issue, that didn't get resolved.
The TB has been good, but theres just some parts that seem to fail more then others.

Umm, I didn't run across the Seals Leaking ordeal. When you say the Seals Leak...you referring to the Seals in/on the Heater Pipe Connectors or Seals on the Water Pump, T-Stat ect?
 

AzTruckGuy

Member
Dec 1, 2015
501
scottsdale, az
Umm, I didn't run across the Seals Leaking ordeal. When you say the Seals Leak...you referring to the Seals in/on the Heater Pipe Connectors or Seals on the Water Pump, T-Stat ect?

More the water pump seals, Ive read that others have had issues with leaking after using a flush compound. Since the T-Stat hose is removed, I would believe most of the fluid would be removed since its at the bottom of the block, my fluid is clean regardless of the color, I think I will be fine with draining, refilling with distilled water and draining and refilling with 50/50. My TB doesn't have heat issues
 

Mooseman

Moderator
Dec 4, 2011
25,260
Ottawa, ON
I'd do a thorough flush since you don't know what's in there now. There have been past instances where people mixed Dexcool with other coolants which caused issues such as goo and blockage. Dexcool does not play nice with other coolants at all.
 
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RTTBLT1

Original poster
Member
Jan 25, 2016
512
Louisburg, KS
I'd do a thorough flush since you don't know what's in there now. There have been past instances where people mixed Dexcool with other coolants which caused issues such as goo and blockage. Dexcool does not play nice with other coolants at all.

Yes, this is why I recommend a flush.

My first Dex-cool vehicle was a 1995 Chevy G20 Conversion Van with the 4.3l Vortec with 141k miles, it had green Coolant added to it at some point and I put Dex-cool in it cause it was low when I purchased it and the label on Coolant Reservoir stated to use the orange...well young, dumb and unaware...she blew a darn Head Gasket!...I thought shoot now got to replace the Head Gasket, lucky I had another vehicle. So I Drain the Coolant & Oil and filled them back up, started it same thing. So it sat for about 2-3 weeks went out to move it for more parking at the house, no smoke at all out the Exhaust and it run great...the darn Head Gasket sealed it self, got darn lucky. So I did another Flush on the Coolant & Oil and never had a problem with it, sold it with 244k miles and still ran great.

Like @Mooseman said, the Dex-cool does not play well with others (coolant types).

That's why I recommend you Flush your system @AzTruckGuy . You want to get as much as the old Coolant out as possible. I would hate to hear you go through something similar. Just my :twocents:
 

AzTruckGuy

Member
Dec 1, 2015
501
scottsdale, az
Yes, this is why I recommend a flush.

My first Dex-cool vehicle was a 1995 Chevy G20 Conversion Van with the 4.3l Vortec with 141k miles, it had green Coolant added to it at some point and I put Dex-cool in it cause it was low when I purchased it and the label on Coolant Reservoir stated to use the orange...well young, dumb and unaware...she blew a darn Head Gasket!...I thought shoot now got to replace the Head Gasket, lucky I had another vehicle. So I Drain the Coolant & Oil and filled them back up, started it same thing. So it sat for about 2-3 weeks went out to move it for more parking at the house, no smoke at all out the Exhaust and it run great...the darn Head Gasket sealed it self, got darn lucky. So I did another Flush on the Coolant & Oil and never had a problem with it, sold it with 244k miles and still ran great.

Like @Mooseman said, the Dex-cool does not play well with others (coolant types).

That's why I recommend you Flush your system @AzTruckGuy . You want to get as much as the old Coolant out as possible. I would hate to hear you go through something similar. Just my :twocents:

Ok I will do a flush , but what do you guys recommend as a flush fluid? Prestone has some bad reviews for leaking gaskets
 
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RTTBLT1

Original poster
Member
Jan 25, 2016
512
Louisburg, KS
Ok I will do a flush , but what do you guys recommend as a flush fluid? Prestone has some bad reviews for leaking gaskets

I would use straight Water from the garden hose. But end the process filling with 50/50 Distilled Water & Dex-cool.

I would Drain the Radiator & Engine Block, fill with Water runs the Engine with your Heat Settings on High for about 20-30 minutes after it has reached normal operating temperatures. Drain the Radiator & Engine Block again, (EDIT: If the last Drain is just clear water continue but if not start the Flushing process again till Water is clear/clean then move on)...this time remove the Inlet and Outlet Heater Hoses from the Block. The Inlet is located on the passenger side of the Block, right in front of the Firewall, the Outlet is on the Driver's side, just behind the T-Stat. Connect a Flushing Tee, tape or block off the extra end, to the Outlet side and back Flush the Heater Core & Hoses/Pipes, once the Water runs clear stop and do the same the other way through the Inlet Hoses in till it runs clear on the Outlet side. After this, I like to use the Flushing Tee to Fill the Heater Hoses/Pipes & Heater Core with a 50/50 mix in the Inlet side till the Coolant exits from the Outlet side. This way you know the Heater Core & Heater Hoses/ Pipes has only the 50/50 mix and no straight Water left in the system. Afterwards connect your Heater Hoses and then fill the Radiator & Engine Block with 50/50 mix and your done. But after running the Engine and few times/miles you will want to keep a eye on the Coolant Level as it may go down just a little.

Hope this helps.
 
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RTTBLT1

Original poster
Member
Jan 25, 2016
512
Louisburg, KS
Ok so...I finally ordered and received the Lisle Spill-Free Funnel, thanks to @Mooseman for the recommendation!...and also stopped and picked up Dex-cool and Distilled Water (4 more gallons not pictured) for the upcoming Coolant Flush....
1462629892529.jpg

Also ordered the following for the upcoming service...
20160507_124102.png
Everything should be delivered by Thursday May 12 so next weekend the Flush will be done :yes:. Thanks everyone and have a great weekend!
 
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AzTruckGuy

Member
Dec 1, 2015
501
scottsdale, az
Ok so...I finally ordered and received the Lisle Spill-Free Funnel, thanks to @Mooseman for the recommendation!...and also stopped and picked up Dex-cool and Distilled Water (4 more gallons not pictured) for the upcoming Coolant Flush....
View attachment 75951

Also ordered the following for the upcoming service...
View attachment 75952
Everything should be delivered by Thursday May 12 so next weekend the Flush will be done :yes:. Thanks everyone and have a great weekend!

Where did you get your hoses and sensor from? Youre going to be doing what I am. The dealer is installing my new gas tank tomorrow then its time to change the thermo stat
 

07TrailyLS

Member
May 7, 2014
423
Toledo ohio
His receipt says rock auto az. And the prices are about right
 

RTTBLT1

Original poster
Member
Jan 25, 2016
512
Louisburg, KS
Do you plan on taking off your Alt? I am debating doing this and going through the wheel arch. Not sure about changing the temp senor as well?

Yes, I will be removing the Alternator. I started the Flushing Process on Monday in preparation for the parts I ordered, only one last Drain to go. I will post pics later.

As far as the CTS goes, I'm not sure that you would be able to remove it without removing the Alternator, I may be wrong but doesn't look like enough room. After seeing the color of the Coolant you had/have, I would strongly recommend replacing the CTS.
 

AzTruckGuy

Member
Dec 1, 2015
501
scottsdale, az
Yes, I will be removing the Alternator. I started the Flushing Process on Monday in preparation for the parts I ordered, only one last Drain to go. I will post pics later.

As far as the CTS goes, I'm not sure that you would be able to remove it without removing the Alternator, I may be wrong but doesn't look like enough room. After seeing the color of the Coolant you had/have, I would strongly recommend replacing the CTS.

After Chevy replaced my gas tank for free, I realized I had replaced parts that didn't need to be replaced because of stalling issue I was having. I am still having the stalling issue and now I am going to go the solenoids route to see if they are the issue. The same goes for replacing parts when doing a radiator flush. If one takes off the Alt, one would think to replace the water pump as you have access to it now, some on the board have said replace even if its working.

I don't know if I am the mood to play that game with my trailblazer, seems when it has issues, some have replaced parts that didn't need to be replaced and some still experience issues.
 

RTTBLT1

Original poster
Member
Jan 25, 2016
512
Louisburg, KS
After Chevy replaced my gas tank for free, I realized I had replaced parts that didn't need to be replaced because of stalling issue I was having. I am still having the stalling issue and now I am going to go the solenoids route to see if they are the issue. The same goes for replacing parts when doing a radiator flush. If one takes off the Alt, one would think to replace the water pump as you have access to it now, some on the board have said replace even if its working.

I don't know if I am the mood to play that game with my trailblazer, seems when it has issues, some have replaced parts that didn't need to be replaced and some still experience issues.

I wasn't having any issues/problems with the Cooling system, I'm just doing what I'm doing for a piece of mind cause I bought it with 160k miles and was unsure what has been done to it, plus we have 4 little ones that ride in it.

As far as the Water Pump, I will just replace it and the Clutch when one of the two go bad.
 

RTTBLT1

Original poster
Member
Jan 25, 2016
512
Louisburg, KS
Got Fluid?...lol
1463007578720.jpg

Ok, so I started the Flushing process on Monday in preparation for the parts and all I had to do was the last Flush and install the parts...here are my results from the Flush...(fluid at start on left down to last flush on the right)
1463007578898.jpg
1463007579019.jpg
1463007579118.jpg

The Coolant was not in the condition I thought it was but was happy to see what was in it. The Fluid in the top of Radiator Neck looked Olive Green/Brown-ish before the start so I'm assuming someone added one of those Anti-Rust Tablets to the system on the last service...???...or I have or had a Hose that is deteriorating from the inside out...???
 

RTTBLT1

Original poster
Member
Jan 25, 2016
512
Louisburg, KS
Ok, so my first T-Stat replacement on the TB went pretty well. Definitely could have been easier but not near as hard as other jobs/repairs I have tackled.
1463016640799.jpg
1463016701149.jpg

IMO, the worst of the job was getting the Alternator in and out with the Fan Shroud in place.

Here is a few pictures of the old/used and new parts...
1463016701473.jpg
1463016701553.jpg
 

hockeyman

Member
Aug 26, 2012
726
Might be a bit of overkill, but I like to take a garden hose and spray the radiator and condenser out (from the front grille area) every once in a while to be sure the cooling fins are clean and free of dirt, leaves, etc. I spray it with the engine running so that the fan pulls the water completely through the fins.

You can replace every part of your cooling system, but still have a hot running engine due to a radiator with its cooling fins blocked-up.

Good job on the flush and replacement parts though. I'm glad I recently did my cooling system before the hot Florida summer temps came around. :biggrin:
 
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RTTBLT1

Original poster
Member
Jan 25, 2016
512
Louisburg, KS
Might be a bit of overkill, but I like to take a garden hose and spray the radiator and condenser out (from the front grille area) every once in a while to be sure the cooling fins are clean and free of dirt, leaves, etc. I spray it with the engine running so that the fan pulls the water completely through the fins.

You can replace every part of your cooling system, but still have a hot running engine due to a radiator with its cooling fins blocked-up.

Good job on the flush and replacement parts though. I'm glad I recently did my cooling system before the hot Florida summer temps came around. :biggrin:

Thanks!

I hear you about the blocked cooling fins. I like to remove the front grill from my vehicles once a year and take it to the car wash to clean the bugs and debris from the Condenser & Radiator. We live in a rural area so we get lots of bugs wedged up front. I'm with you, definitely believe it helps with not only keeping the Engine running cooler but also making the parts/components last longer.
 

RTTBLT1

Original poster
Member
Jan 25, 2016
512
Louisburg, KS
Also, just a side note for anyone that maybe interested...

While installing the new T-Stat I noticed a manufacturerd date casted into the housing. So being curious to when the last time it was replaced i checked the old/used T-Stat (had to wire brush it) and here is what I found...
1463066091989.jpg
1463066092103.jpg

So, if you have purchased one of these vehicles used and are curious to when it was replaced last, this should give you a very close estimate.
 

AzTruckGuy

Member
Dec 1, 2015
501
scottsdale, az
So wheres your new Tstat from? I bought an Ac Delco and its made in mexico which makes me wonder if its even worth buying the AC delco parts?

Ok, so my first T-Stat replacement on the TB went pretty well. Definitely could have been easier but not near as hard as other jobs/repairs I have tackled.
View attachment 76002
View attachment 76003

IMO, the worst of the job was getting the Alternator in and out with the Fan Shroud in place.

Here is a few pictures of the old/used and new parts...
View attachment 76004
View attachment 76005

If I was at this point I would just replace the water pump as well, it might be over kill, but why not. I didn't want to take the belt off but after thinking about I am just going this route and replacing the water pump at well.
 
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RTTBLT1

Original poster
Member
Jan 25, 2016
512
Louisburg, KS
So wheres your new Tstat from? I bought an Ac Delco and its made in mexico which makes me wonder if its even worth buying the AC delco parts?

Yes, I believe mine also said Mexico on the AC Delco label stuck to the box.
 

RTTBLT1

Original poster
Member
Jan 25, 2016
512
Louisburg, KS
Update to my Coolant Flush and the T-Stat & ECT Sensor replacement...

So about a week after doing the job I noticed a small Coolant Leak around the T-Stat area. Decided to remove the Alt again and check everything. Before I began i picked up a 18mm Crows Foot in case it was the ECT Sensor. Found that the ECT Sensor was loose so I tighten it as tight as I could get it with the 18mm Crows Foot and a 3/8in Ratchet. It seemed to fix the Coolant Leak...so I thought.

Fast forward to yesterday...checking the Tire Pressure, I noticed it was Leaking Coolant again down the side of the block around the T-Stat.

Was I suppose to add Thread Sealant Tape to the new ECT Sensor?...even though it had the factory Thread Sealant on it...?

Or did I receive a bad/faulty ECT Sensor?

Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Thanks
 

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