does it have trouble defrosting the front window? If the window has a hard time clearing itself while in defrost (which turns on AC automatically as part of the drying process) and has a tendency to re fog quickly, then it's still a leaking heater core...or hose connections leaking that go to it. HTH c good
Coolant burning/boiling type smell, everyone once in a while.
- Thread starter 06TrailblazerLSS
- Start date
Mounce
Member
C-ya
Member
- Aug 24, 2012
- 1,098
c good, that is my problem here lately. Sucks! I keep a container of no fog wipes in the truck now. Doesn't really help...
Oddly enough, my radiator cap had a slight wet spot there at the neck where it attaches. Not much, just a tiny bit, but weird. I'll check a new cap out as well. I just had to add fluid to my reservoir.
Oddly enough, my radiator cap had a slight wet spot there at the neck where it attaches. Not much, just a tiny bit, but weird. I'll check a new cap out as well. I just had to add fluid to my reservoir.
- Apr 28, 2014
- 93
Anyone know both part numbers of the caps and the cheapest place to order them? Can I use any ordinary 3-4" hose clamp?
Mooseman
Moderator
RockAuto should be a good place to find part numbers. RA or Amazon should have reasonable prices. Unless you're running drain pipes, 1½ - 2 " clamps should work.
- Apr 28, 2014
- 93
Spong
Member
- Dec 12, 2011
- 59
Just curious if you've replaced it yet?? I noticed yesterday my 06 5.3 w/93k smells of coolant. I've been driving it the last few days because it needed exercise. I checked my records and I had barely driven it 200 miles since the oil change in November so I've been driving it. I noticed the coolant smell for the first time yesterday.C-ya said:
I did notice last summer that when I parked the TB after driving it, that it would drip just a tiny bit of coolant on the garage floor behind the passenger front tire. Upon closer inspection, it was coming from a drain tube which I think attaches to the heater box. This would make sense because I didn't use the heat until just recently and smelled it. I wasn't smelling anything during the summer months. I'm guessing the heater core is leaking inside the box and it's draining. I've been watching the coolant level and it's staying full though.
So now I'm debating if it try replacing it myself or paying to do it. I'm fortunate that I don't need to the TB so if I want to take my time and tear it apart in the garage I could. I'm just not sure what specialized tools I might need. I cringe thinking about a mechanic tearing my interior apart.
IllogicTC
Member
- Dec 30, 2013
- 3,452
I suppose it's one of those "on the one hand... on the other hand..." scenarios.
Scenario 1 is you do your own heater core R/R. The big thing here is it's usually a very-involved process. The labor estimator books state it's a 5.2 hour job. I'm looking at the actual R/R shop procedures, and you have to remove the entire dash, and disconnect the refrigerant lines and heater line quick-connects to pull the HVAC module assembly out to access the core. This means draining the coolant (easy), and emptying the A/C system (not easy, scavenging refrigerant requires special tools and very expensive shop equipment, releasing refrigerant in the atmosphere is illegal).
On the other hand, putting it in the hands of a mechanic is going to be very costly (see labor hours above) and you have to trust they know what they're doing. The best choice would be to find a trusted and competent mechanic in that case.
Scenario 1 is you do your own heater core R/R. The big thing here is it's usually a very-involved process. The labor estimator books state it's a 5.2 hour job. I'm looking at the actual R/R shop procedures, and you have to remove the entire dash, and disconnect the refrigerant lines and heater line quick-connects to pull the HVAC module assembly out to access the core. This means draining the coolant (easy), and emptying the A/C system (not easy, scavenging refrigerant requires special tools and very expensive shop equipment, releasing refrigerant in the atmosphere is illegal).
On the other hand, putting it in the hands of a mechanic is going to be very costly (see labor hours above) and you have to trust they know what they're doing. The best choice would be to find a trusted and competent mechanic in that case.
Spong
Member
- Dec 12, 2011
- 59
Yeah, I've been reading up on it and it's a long process, the entire dash and center console have to come out. I'm not really worried about that so much, it's the AC lines I'm concerned about. I'm worried about causing damage disconnecting them or contaminates getting into the system. I supposed I could have a shop draw the system down and then recharge when I'm finished.IllogicTC said:
TB2004
Member
- Aug 1, 2012
- 57
I've had this problem for a while, found water pump was leaking, replaced it, thermostat and temp sensor. But still have the smell, mostly drivers side. I do have rear a/c - heater tho. I have sniffed around engine compartment and it is on drivers side for sure. Thermostat and sensor not leaking. Have not been able to get underneath to find the hoses to rear heater. Are these metallic or rubber? Has anyone had to change these hoses before? There is no visible sign of a leak, just the smell.
Mounce
Member
- Apr 28, 2014
- 93
C-ya
Member
- Aug 24, 2012
- 1,098
Sorry - I just noticed this the other day. Not sure why I didn't pay attention to the quote notice.Spong said:
No, I have not done it yet. It is getting more annoying by fogging up my windshield - but only the driver's side. Well, it fogs up both sides, but when I hit Defrost, the passenger side clears right up. Seems like I'm having a flow issue, too, where the DS is getting less CFM than the passenger.
I'll have to pick a weekend, clean out the garage from the bikes, mowers and other summer residents and have it available to push the truck into if needed and get to it.