bypass the smart track system

gmt360_70_05

Original poster
Member
Nov 20, 2014
2
Hi everyone, New to the forum. I searched but didn't find any info.

Got a 2004 Rainier with the inline 6 engine and want to know if anyone has been able to install a toggle switch that essentially tricks the smart track system into thinking its slipping so the awd stays on.

I hate the system in that it has to have a slip before kicking power to the front wheels, and with the snow and ice I don't want to wait till the car is a little bit off line to all of a sudden give power to the front wheels.

Maybe instructions on which sensor to give constant power, what wires to jump out or close, which relay... any kind of info would be greatly appreciated.

I had posted on trailvoy earlier today, and someone over there recommended I check at this site.


Thanks!
 

carshinebob

Member
Jun 13, 2014
153
Welcome to the forum fellow michigander. There are folks on this forum that are better schooled on this then I, however I've been sorting out the smartrack on my Bravada the last couple of days. So now that I have my system working it engages so smooth that it's hard to know it's there. My thoughts are; is your smartrack working properly? excesive rear wheel spinning would mean there's a problem. Also the standard question. Has the Transfer case fluid been changed as recomended every 50k?
I don't see any easy way to bypass the system because the activation of 4 wheel is contoled by a TCCM which monitors front and rear driveshaft rotation. once a slip is detected the TCCM contols (with feedback) the encoder motor which puts pressure on the clutches in the transfer increasing torque to the front axle. Whew, I think I got that right. ~BOB
 

RayVoy

Member
Nov 20, 2011
939
There is slip built into that system, because GM used a transfer case design that is used in the 4x4 trucks. The slippage is required in this design so the truck will operate on hard surfaces.
If you trick the controller into going into full time four wheel drive, the truck will wear out the transfer case, the front diff, the tires and you very quickly.
The slippage is there so the front wheels can turn without binding.
 
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The_Roadie

Lifetime VIP Donor
Member
Nov 19, 2011
9,957
Portland, OR
That's good advice right there. The system was kludged into simulating an AWD design by designers looking to sell these things to soccer moms, but it's really not 100% suitable. Due to transfer case clutch wear, and the possible sudden engagement triggered by wheel slip, especially as the transfer case gets old and doubly especially if it's been undermaintained.
 
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IllogicTC

Member
Dec 30, 2013
3,452
The_Roadie said:
That's good advice right there. The system was kludged into simulating an AWD design by designers looking to sell these things to soccer moms, but it's really not 100% suitable. Due to transfer case clutch wear, and the possible sudden engagement triggered by wheel slip, especially as the transfer case gets old and doubly especially if it's been undermaintained.
What's really interesting is certain models got the 226, which comes with the "AWD," plus options to disengage, fully-engage, or change to a different gear ratio. Meanwhile, the "luxury" brands got the 126, where you literally get just permanent A4WD. On the flipside, the front disconnect is now a straight-up connection, which can improve reliability. They both have their moment to shine, but I'd say a maintained disconnect and the 226 is a much better choice.

I would say a better option for the AWD owners is to be able to completely disengage, rather than fully engage, the clutch pack. I'm not sure that this is even physically possible if they changed the design of the parts to only travel within "clutch engaged" territory, but as the base unit is pretty much a 1-speed version of the 226, I would think it possible. Then, on nice perfect sunny days where AWD is completely useless, you can minimize wear to your transfer case, front differential, and front tires.
 

gmt360_70_05

Original poster
Member
Nov 20, 2014
2
Whoa,

Thanks for all the replies. All good info here. I will not pursuit this any further. I didn't know that they used the full time gearbox and it would make sense not to have it on all the time.
The diff fluid was said to be changed at 50k. its got 81k on it now, I have a place that can do the rear diff and t-case for less than $170 so I will probably just have it done as piece of mind.

Got my new suspension (ready struts for the front, and spring conversion kit for the rear) plus all new moog endlinks yesterday. This weekend should be fun.

Thanks,
 

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