brake pedal shakes when applied, Also Passenger side shakes when speed is above 60

[rene_320]

Hello everyone, I recently made the transition from T.V. to here and I was looking around this forum to see if I can pin point what’s going on with my Tb. I just recently installed Driver/Passenger inner/outer tie rods, sway bar links, new DG rotors and DG brake pads. This was all done by me. I made all these changes since I felt a bad vibration when applying the brake but I only felt the vibration on the passenger side. Since replacing everyting mentioned above it still does the vibration when applying the brake at high speed. Also the TB starts to vibrate only from the passenger side when I go anything above 60.

I almost forgot both upper and lower ball joint were replaced by Pepboys a year ago. The only thing I can think of that might be causing this problem is the struts since they are about 3yrs old.

Can anyone give me there two cents on what might be wrong? Thank you in advance for any info.

Also whant to Thank You guys from the old forum( T.V.) you guys helped me do everything mentioned above.

 

[The_Roadie]

Welcome!

Check for loose parts by getting the front end in the air, and wiggling the tire at the 6 and 12 o'clock positions, then the 9 and 3.

Assume you got an alignment after all that work? Hubs are a suspect. You didn't share the mileage. You can sometimes get a clue by pressing thebrake gently so the pads just touch the rotors, in case you have warped rotors. Also check the caliper bolts, and the UCA mounts. Broken wheel studs?

Many more folks should be along soon. We're not a dusty wasteland like trailvoy turned into after we all were compelled to leave. Did you get an invitation, or figure it out on your own?

 

[Hypnotoad]

By DG do you mean Duralast Gold? The last time I used Duralast rotors, I warped them in about 2 weeks.

In my opinion, sounds like a bad wheel hub. They can be tricky to figure out which one is vibrating sometimes. A lot of times people replace the wrong side.

 

[rene_320]

Welcome!

Check for loose parts by getting the front end in the air, and wiggling the tire at the 6 and 12 o'clock positions, then the 9 and 3.

Assume you got an alignment after all that work? Hubs are a suspect. You didn't share the mileage. You can sometimes get a clue by pressing thebrake gently so the pads just touch the rotors, in case you have warped rotors. Also check the caliper bolts, and the UCA mounts. Broken wheel studs?

Many more folks should be along soon. We're not a dusty wasteland like trailvoy turned into after we all were compelled to leave. Did you get an invitation, or figure it out on your own?

Thanks for the warm welcome Roadie!

Yes i check the front for any play at the 6 /12 and 9 / 3 o'clock position not play what so ever.

Sorry the TB has 177k on her. The TB got the alignment after doing all that work and the passenger side hub was replaced also sorry forgot to mentioned that in the orginial post. I replaced it with the Timken hub. All these parts are brand spanking new. dont even have 500 miles on them.

The caliper bolts where fine on both sides. the upper copper arm mounts looked okay.

No I actually stumbled onto this website from someone from TV they had mentioned that all the TV wizards had left to GMTnation.

By DG do you mean Duralast Gold? The last time I used Duralast rotors, I warped them in about 2 weeks.

In my opinion, sounds like a bad wheel hub. They can be tricky to figure out which one is vibrating sometimes. A lot of times people replace the wrong side.

Yes that's what i meant sorry, Really? well i just put the new rotors and brake pads on yesterday so i dont think they could ve warped already? or can they?

You might be on to something since I never replaced the driver side hub only the passenger side. since this has happened before but went away as soon as i replaced the wheel hub on the passenger side.

 

[Hypnotoad]

Anything's possible, but not likely.

All it took was one hard stop on a really hot day and my autozone rotors were toast.

 

[Robbabob]

Did you have the rotors turned by a shop before installation? My buddy swears by that...


Edit: pardon my manners.... Welcome to the Nation!

 

[rene_320]

Anything's possible, but not likely.

All it took was one hard stop on a really hot day and my autozone rotors were toast.

You are right anything is possible. My godfather said that the rotors where very hot when he inspected the parts i installed. so maybe they got warped when doing the test drive. Also i noticed that my passenger side nose dives a bit more than my driver side. not sure if that means the strut is worn out already or about to.

Did you have the rotors turned by a shop before installation? My buddy swears by that...


Edit: pardon my manners.... Welcome to the Nation!

Nope i bought them new from autozone yesterday.

thanks for the welcome Robbabob!

 

[Trios]

Welcome to The Nation!

I think you may have two issues here. In my experience, a wobble over 60 MPH is usually an out of balance or poorly worn tire. Check your tire wear and get them rebalanced and see if the shimmy at speed quits.

If the tire balance isn't the issue or it doesn't solve the brake issue, you might have a bad caliper since it's the only part you haven't replaced. It would be some pretty crazy braking to warp the whole caliper or the mounting bracket...

 

[The_Roadie]

Did your test drive involve a proper brake pad seating process? (Repeated stops from 50 MPH with a cool-off period between them...and no panic or aggressive stops)?

 

[BlazingTrails]

Welcome to GMT!

If the caliper is sticking it would cause the rotor to get hot and possibly warp. if you get the wheel off the ground see it it freely spins or it has resistance. if your not sure compare it ti the other side. did you thoroughly clean the rotors after changing them? any grease or oily residue can potentially cause the symptoms you are describing. if the problem is the rotor, or if your not sure take it back and exchange it for another one. there should be a warranty in place. I also agree with Trios about the tires, make sure they are balanced or at least rotate them and see if there are any changes.

-Brandon

 

[Trios]

Did your test drive involve a proper brake pad seating process? (Repeated stops from 50 MPH with a cool-off period between them...and no panic or aggressive stops)?

Quick correction Bill. During a bed-in process, you don't want to actually come to a complete stop, or at least not using the brakes to do so while they're still hot. Doing so can cause the pad material to stick to the rotor, and actually cause a shimmy in the brake pedal until it's worn off by more hard almost-stops. Also, the stops should be 'reasonably' aggressive, because you do have to warm up the brakes pretty good for the bedding in to work, but not hard enough to lock up the brakes.

Just did this last night with my Corvette actually, bedded in the new ceramics, though admittedly I was enjoying the process a bit too much and engaged the ABS a number of times....

 

[Wooluf1952]

Welcome

In case you haven't heard:
http://gmtnation.com/forums/topic/218-welcome-to-gmtnationcom-heres-the-story/

Move that tire/wheel combo to a new position, would be my first move. See if the vibration moves with it.

 

[rene_320]

Thank you everyone for your suggestions. My next step is to rotate my tires and balance them. I will do this on the weekend since Friday is pay day lol. Not sure if I should post this in the suspension part but I noticed a weird knocking noise coming from the front of the TB. I rocked the TB as hard as I could and all I can hear is a knocking noise. Can anyone think of what maybe be causing this noise?

 

[JerryIrons]

Something is loose. With the wheels on the ground get underneath with a pry bar, and also have a friend rock the vehicle so you can figure out what's loose.

A vibration at high speeds is often something messed up with the suspension, or a tire out of balance, worn wrong etc.

 

[blazinlow89]

Warped brake rotor would be my first guess. Even at speed they can cause a vibration. It intensifies with braking.

 

[The_Roadie]

Knocking with the engine off and you rock the car from side to side and not just up and down symmetrically in the front? That would be worn anti-sway bar bushings, a loose mounting bracket, worn end links, or (most likely) a loose nut on the end link bolt.

 

[MAY03LT]

Was it new pads/rotors all the way around?

 

[rene_320]

Something is loose. With the wheels on the ground get underneath with a pry bar, and also have a friend rock the vehicle so you can figure out what's loose.

A vibration at high speeds is often something messed up with the suspension, or a tire out of balance, worn wrong etc.

That was my first guess that something i changed out might have gotten loose. I will try what you suggested when i get home from work.

Knocking with the engine off and you rock the car from side to side and not just up and down symmetrically in the front? That would be worn anti-sway bar bushings, a loose mounting bracket, worn end links, or (most likely) a loose nut on the end link bolt.

Yeah I heard the noise when I moved the steering wheel to avoid hitting a pothole and clunk is all i heard. Got home and with the car off I rocked it from the driver side window. You could hear it clearly but mainly from the passenger side of the car. I pushed down on front of the car and you can just slightly hear it. The mechanic at Pepboys did tell me my sway bar bushings were worn out already. I will check the sway bar links and make sure they didnt get loose.

Thank you guys for all the suggestions. I will do process of elimination. Im glad I found this Forum.

 

[rene_320]

Was it new pads/rotors all the way around?

No sir. just the front. the back only got new brake pads.

 

[MAY03LT]

I'd be inspecting the rear rotors next. I've seen a few of these that had uneven pad contact on the backs of the rear rotors, which left a good sized lip/rustband on them.

 

[coolasice]

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