Brake Job Questions

[pmsmith2032]

I am getting ready to change the front brakes and rotors this weekend on our 2005 Envoy SLT (with 105k miles)and want to know what other steps I should be completing while doing this. I ordered brakemotive ceramic pads and rotors. This will be the second time I have changed them. The first time I just replaced the brakes and rotors (no brake line bleeding or any other inspection/replacements). So I a wondering:

1. Should I bleed the brake lines? Will it matter if I only do the front and wait on the backs?

2. What else should I be inspecting while replacing them? I'm assuming I should take a look at the suspension (I'm pretty sure the shocks/struts need to be replaced). Any "how to's"?

3. How difficult is it to paint the calipers? Do I need to remove them to do so? What kind of paint? What color with a silver Envoy?

4. Is there any way to get the inside of the wheels (the part on the back side) clean? I've tried in the past to scrub with soap but they never seem to get clean.

5. Any tips on cleaning and protecting wheel wells? They look dull and dirty right now.

6. What else am I missing?

Thanks!

 

[Sparky]

1. I usually recommend opening the bleeder screws when pushing the caliper pistons back, to at least get some of the old fluid out of the caliper itself. It wouldn't hurt to bleed out the lines to get fresh fluid in the system if it hasn't been done in a long time, but it isn't absolutely necessary.

2. While you have stuff apart, check all the rubber boots for cracking, slop in the sway links, ball joints, etc.

3. I have never painted calipers, but I've seen people do it on and off the vehicle. If you do it on the vehicle make sure you cover up everything you don't want painted. Off the vehicle gives you a cleaner finish probably, but then you have to really bleed all the air out of the brake system. I'd do them on vehicle myself.

4. Once the barrels of the wheels get really dirty it is hard to get them clean. Need a stronger wheel cleaner that will soak into the caked brake dust and junk. Probably will take several soak and scrub sessions to get them clean.

5. Similar with the wheel wells, they'll take a lot of scrubbing to get clean. But then they'll get dirty real quick from the tires throwing junk on them all the time. Personally I said screw it and never bothered scrubbing it down lol.

 

[dmanns67]

Good choice on the BrakeMotive rotors and pads. Painting the calipers/rotors is not hard, but takes time for the prep work (cleaning and masking). Since your getting new rotors you might think about painting them while they are off of the truck before install.

I painted my rotors with DupliColor caliper paint and painted my calipers with G2 brush on caliper paint. The G2 paint worked well, it saved time from having to mask off anything and you can paint the caliper in place.

Its up to you on bleeding and changing the brake fluid. I personally was due for new brake fluid and decided to change it since I was installing new rotors and pads.

As far as color, you have many options with silver and G2 has tons of colors. Silver or black would look good.

 

[pmsmith2032]

Thanks! Where can you buy G2? I was hoping to buy something at Menards or Home Depot.

 

[dmanns67]

G2 I had to order off of Amazon.com. You can always buy a can of aerosol caliper paint. You will need to do some masking though. I have not seen the G2 in any stores around me which is why I bought it online.

 

[Blckshdw]

+1 for the brush-on caliper paint. I bought some Duplicolor caliper paint online, and it was pretty quick and easy. I went with gloss black to go with my silver TB. You get WAY more than you need, since you don't waste any from overspray, so you'll have plenty for touch ups down the road if necessary. I was able to do mine, and another member's and still have more than 1/3 of the can left.

 

[rmsg0040]

Another tip is to pull the slide pins out, clean and grease with appropriate lube.

I had a stuck pin on my driver's side rear that wore the pads down to bare metal and ruined the rotors, the other side was fine.

 

[6716]

+1 on greasing the slide pins

don't forget to replace the brake hardware

Figuring out the flush & fill on the brake fluid was too much for me, so I had that done at my tire place before dong the rest of the work myself. Still way cheaper than paying someone else for the whole job.

 

[meerschm]

you can google up some good videos on changing the struts.

need a big hammer to get the strut out of the cast bottom part.

your choice will be to get a strut unit with springs, (what I did, which was easier, and I never noticed any difference)

or go with just the strut and keep your springs. they shipped a bizillion different springs, depending on exact equipment included when it came down the assy line.

if you do the DIY be smart on how to use the spring compressor, or have a local shop do it for you.

don't skimp. (unless you just want to get rid of it soon)

if you wait to do the struts too long, you will need new tires. mine scalloped pretty good when the shocks quit. made a nice hum from the edge of the tires.

you also may want to consider a subscrption to alldataDIY. ( I did so to work on my son's cobalt, and it was quite helpful)

 

[IllogicTC]

Another tip is to pull the slide pins out, clean and grease with appropriate lube.

I had a stuck pin on my driver's side rear that wore the pads down to bare metal and ruined the rotors, the other side was fine.

And make sure after greasing the little rubber boots protect the slide pin properly. Can't be really stiff, cracked, torn etc.

 

[jrSS]

Good lord fellas....just change the pads. Little dab of grease on the sliders and stick pads in. Done.

 

[glfredrick]

I've generally painted my rotors with rustoleum or something similar. It lasts for years. No need for specialty paints if one is not racing the vehicle as the calipers never get that hot. I even spray mine while still on the vehicle, but it would be cleaner to do it while they are off (at least off the rotors). Just stick a piece of cardboard behind them and spray away.

 

[IllogicTC]

Good lord fellas....just change the pads. Little dab of grease on the sliders and stick pads in. Done.

Except since you've already got the shaft in, might as well go balls-deep.

I mean stuff like greasing the sliders should be done every now and then anyway, brakes being redone or not, and this is a perfect opportunity to do this. The brake pads (if they're AC Delco at least) comes with all-new anti-squeal clips and they may as well be used.

 

[pmsmith2032]

Thanks! A couple of follow up questions:

1. When I paint the rotors and calipers, what surfaces do I paint exactly? I'm assuming I should only paint the outside of the calipers and the center of the rotors? Any tips on cleaning the calipers before painting?

2. Silver or black rotors and calipers on a silver Envoy?

3. What kind of grease do you use when greasing the sliders, rubber boots protect the slide pin, etc? Does anyone have a diagram of what parts these are?

4. Any diagrams on checking slop in the sway links, ball joints, etc?

5. How much brake fluid should I buy if I'm bleeding the two front brakes?

Thanks in advance and have a great Friday/weekend!

 

[pmsmith2032]

I was able to change the front brakes over the weekend. Stopping seems MUCH better but the pedal is still a bit "spongy". I'm assuming bleeding would help?

 

[Sparky]

Bleeding could help (get old fluid out) but also try working the ABS system. Slippery road in the winter works best, or you could use a parking lot after rain, or gravel (though that risks rock chips), get some speed up, then slam the brakes on to work the ABS. That firmed my pedal up a bit after I slipped on some ice.

These trucks don't have a very hard pedal even after that however, but it can be improved.

 

[BuckeyeEvan]

After I changed my pads I noticed my spongy/ soft pedal went away. The pedal now feels firmer. The new pads gives me assurance that the truck will stop in time.(the old pads never did) I picked up Akebono pads from Amazon.