4.2 xuv water pump and coolant

[WookieeUK]

Few days ago noticed squal from belt area which increased with acceleration .. somedays not making a sound but most of the time its there . Wifes travelling as a nurse to vegas and back 3 to 4 days a week so around 120 mile per day ( were hopefully moving closer to vegas in the next month )

After looking around im suspecting the water pump so with that in mind i made a order

ac delco Water pump arrived
New tensioner
New pulley
New belt

After reading regarding coolant and what to use what not to use etcetc .
When other half got home yesterday i looked in the reservoir . Green coolant in there .

Am i right in thinking this all has to come out some how ? And use testers to check coolant etc to get the right mix ( never done before )

We are unsure if the coolant was flushed correctly previously to then put the green stuff in . There is no gunk in the expansion tank

Going to have to get some loaner tools. To free clutch , a torque wrench .
Biggest issue in general seems to be fan / shroud removal . The rest seems simple enough

Any pointers etc

Here are a couple of video

2 new items by Dave Gilmore

photos.app.goo.gl

 

[mrrsm]

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[Mooseman]

The subject of the coolant type was never discussed in any of the FAQ posts.

Likely a previous owner switched from the orange Dexcool to the regular green stuff. And if you don't see any goo in the tank or radiator, I would assume that it was completely flushed of the Dexcool before adding the green coolant. However, there is a reason why the OEM used Dexcool where the green stuff might not be compatible and why your water pump may have failed.

From this site:

2. Organic acid technology (OAT):​

These coolants turned into the norm around the late-nineties and are still going strong in many newer cars all across the world.
Although devoid of both phosphates and silicates, OAT coolants offer similar corrosion resistance as the green antifreeze mixes.
But the anti-corrosive compounds in these solutions are slow-acting, which gives the product a longer life span.
Also, it is specifically designed to offer anti-corrosive protection to the aluminum and nylon parts in newer model cars.
Originally marketed as “permanent” or “long life” antifreeze, OAT coolants, or Dex-cool as they are commonly known, have to be replaced every 3-5 years.
Another important difference is that unlike IAT coolants, OAT products use propylene glycol as the base, so they are less harmful for pets, kids and the environment in case of a spill or boil-over.
OAT antifreeze mixes are usually orange, yellow or red but also comes in other colors, such as blue, red and very dark green, depending on the variant and the manufacturer.
These coolants are widely available and used in most GM cars and trucks manufactured after 1995 as well as in vehicles manufactured between 1996 and 2001 by Audi, Honda, Jaguar, Kia, Land Rover, Mazda, Nissan, Porsche, Saab, Toyota and VW.

So I would recommend that you completely flush the green stuff out and use the proper mix of Dexcool concentrate and distilled water (50-50) or pre-mixed Dexcool.

 

[WookieeUK]

The subject of the coolant type was never discussed in any of the FAQ posts.

Likely a previous owner switched from the orange Dexcool to the regular green stuff. And if you don't see any goo in the tank or radiator, I would assume that it was completely flushed of the Dexcool before adding the green coolant. However, there is a reason why the OEM used Dexcool where the green stuff might not be compatible and why your water pump may have failed.

From this site:



So I would recommend that you completely flush the green stuff out and use the proper mix of Dexcool concentrate and distilled water (50-50) or pre-mixed Dexcool.

Yep gonna try a flush ... literally just bought some ionised water and some dex cool literally just now to tckle this in the morning .

Thank you for you help so far much appreciated

 

[Mooseman]

Added this thread to the FAQ.

Additional info. A lot of people switch out the Dexcool because the early version did have some issues of gelling and causing deposits but have since been fixed. I have yet to see these problems in any vehicles from this century. Nowadays, it's more a problem of people adding the wrong type. There is also a "universal" type (clear yellow) that is supposed to work with all types, however, I am leery of this and it may even lower the longevity of the Dexcool.

 

[WookieeUK]

Thanks for all the tips and advice on water pump etc .
I think i was over thinking every thing

Flushed 5 times which took longer than anything and water coming out was almost clear

Torquing down waterpump .
She come out her dads had a heart attack ( this being our only vehicle and were 50 mile from Vegas ) .. we knew i needed to get a move on with things and things were going well untill
Last bolt bottom left ( snap ) s£%t .. no drill no extractor , her dad on way to hospital .
Everything back together . Refilled coolant . No leaks . !!! Left running for a while and were on our way to see her dad .

No leaks

this morning 2 tiny and i mean tiny drops under the car 🫣

No issues so far i dont think .
Got a tub in the back of the xuv if needed of a 50/50 mix
Going back to the hospital today then tomorra going to try get this bolt out .
Her dad has a drill in shed if needed
Though given how the bolt broke there seems there will be a lip for a small screw driver to hit and help turn carefully 🫣

Try find a good easy out kit locally

So in the morning . Fan back out . Belt off etc . See if can fish it out while everything in place


Any idea on bolt sizes ? Best place to buy etc


All my tools still in the U.K . Money a lil tight at the moment and wife is 6 month pregnant so hope can get sorted

 

[mrrsm]

This is just a Generic Search for "Bolts" on the GM Parts Direct Site... but it will give you an Example of how to go to this Link...and search their entire Stock for Sets of Bolts that Match your Vehicle Year Make Model and Engine Displacement with options to verify whether or not what you find there are the correct Bolt Hardness (8.8, 9.8. 10.9 etc), Metric Size (M6, M8 etc.) and Bolt Thread Pitch and Threads Per Inch (1, 1.25, 1.50 etc) and Bolt Length (12mm, 15,mm, 25mm, etc) all of which MUST exactly match the in-dwelling Bolts remaining arrayed around the perimeter of the Water Pump.

My suggestion would be to remove an undamaged one...and use an Outside Micrometer to measure its Hex Head, Shank Width and Overall Length before viewing similar Bolts being offered by GM here below:.. and one last warning... Find out PRECISELY what the Inch Pound Rating is for tightening these down and use an Inch Pound Torque Wrench to install ALL of those Fasteners...correctly from scratch.

Remember....These Bolts depicted below are merely GM OEM EXAMPLES of what you should be looking for via this Link...they are NOT the Exact Bolts you require:

2002-2012 GM Multi-Purpose Bolt 11519038 | GMPartsDirect.com

2002-2012 GM part # 11519038 - Multi-Purpose Bolt

www.gmpartsdirect.com

 

[WookieeUK]

Thank you . I was given the torque specs and went to auto zone to hire a torque wrench

Water pump
Initially tighten to 35 inch pounds then tighten to 89 inch pounds

Tensioner
Tensioner bolt torque is 37 ft-lbs
Drive pulley bolt torque is 37 ft-lbs

fan nut to water pump torque is 41 ft-lbs


Im going to pop to chevy today hopefully can sort

Worry now is if i swap then all one by kne and if they break