2006 trailblazer removing engine-getting to transmission housing bolts?

[CASHKJ]

Hi,
I need a little input I'm removing engine from 2006 trailblazer and I am having a problem getting the transmission to drop down so that I can get to the top bolts on housing.I have removed the bracket under the transfer case and placed jack under transmission as it said to do in manual but transmission did not drop I have to be missing something.Any info greatly appreciated.

 

[seanpooh]

I'm assuming that you don't have a 4.3L V6 but the 4.2L I6 model. Here is a link for the How-To I found. I hope it helps.

It looks like more work than just removing the bolts...

You can download the pdf by clicking on the three dots on the top left hand.


http://sdrv.ms/YFqWTn

 

[CASHKJ]

Yes it is a 4.2 with four wheel drive.If I am just removing the engine do I have to remove main drive shaft and front drive shaft to get the transmission to tilt far enough down to get to the top bolts.

 

[mrphoenix80]

You have to remove the front shaft anyway because the front diff is mounted to(and through) the engine oil pan. Of course with all I have done to these trucks I have never pulled the engine. However when I drop the trans I use a 3ft extension and a swivel and a socket. Also the vent lines bolt to the top trans bolt. So you will have a 13mm nut then a bracket to hold the vent hoses and then a 15mm bolt.

What do you mean by bracket??? The trans mount (2"x6"x4")? or the crossmember from the left side of the frame to the right? My service manual states to remove the crossmember and lower the trans to access the top bolts. At this point you are 2 lines(that you have unhooked the front of already), 4 or 5 electrical plugs,torque convertor to flywheel bolts(you have to remove anyway) and a drive shaft away from removing the trans. I would have to consider just removing it at that point. An extra 30min that saves you having to support the trans and then trying to align the trans and the motor and to the mounts when installing.

 

[seanpooh]

http://sdrv.ms/WujL4u\

So you pretty much have to dismantle the whole vehicle. Now I know why they charge $2500 to replace...

Just remember the front axle isn't taken into consideration so I'm not sure if you should remove it first by dropping the oil pan or there would be enough clearance to pull it out along with the engine. Regardless, the CV joints and maybe the axle disconnect on the passenger side has to be removed.

 

[Regulator]

OK, this is getting a bit far from correct when there is talk about removing the spline disconnect and oil pan, THESE DO NOT HAVE TO BE REMOVED!!!!!

It is actually not a difficult engine to remove.

Here is a really good how to:

4.2 Engine Removal

To answer your original question, You should have both drive shafts removed, the transmission/transfer case support bar removed (4 horizontal nuts and bolts & 8 vertical bolts). Loosen your motor mount nuts to allow it to pivot. I also recommend that you remove the transfer case, it will make it easier to get to the bolts on the transmission. Now slowly lower the jack and the transmission should come down. If it doesn't then look over everything on the transmission and make sure there are no cables, fluid lines, or electrical the is binding it up. Good luck

 

[seanpooh]

Hey... that's the same thing I posted up

No worries, I'm not trying to give wrong directions or anything. I'm just trying to help.
I know the front diff is bolted on but I wasn't sure if it could remain when pulling the engine out.
I just stated that the manual didn't take any consideration to 4x4 parts when you are removing the engine.

 

[Regulator]

Hey... that's the same thing I posted up

No worries, I'm not trying to give wrong directions or anything. I'm just trying to help.
I know the front diff is bolted on but I wasn't sure if it could remain when pulling the engine out.
I just stated that the manual didn't take any consideration to 4x4 parts when you are removing the engine.

Yes, It can be pulled with the front diff attached, all that has to be removed is the half shafts.

The front diff is bolted on by 4 external bolts, there would be no need to drop the oil pan to remove the diff anyway.

 

[dfc739]

OK, this is getting a bit far from correct when there is talk about removing the spline disconnect and oil pan, THESE DO NOT HAVE TO BE REMOVED!!!!!

It is actually not a difficult engine to remove.

Here is a really good how to:

4.2 Engine Removal

To answer your original question, You should have both drive shafts removed, the transmission/transfer case support bar removed (4 horizontal nuts and bolts & 8 vertical bolts). Loosen your motor mount nuts to allow it to pivot. I also recommend that you remove the transfer case, it will make it easier to get to the bolts on the transmission. Now slowly lower the jack and the transmission should come down. If it doesn't then look over everything on the transmission and make sure there are no cables, fluid lines, or electrical the is binding it up. Good luck

When we swapped my motor back in September we removed the front differential and spline disconnect while it was still in/attached to the frame. The reason: they are often corroded to the point that once you have the engine out it's hard as !@#$ to be able to pry on anything. Trying to pry on an engine that is swinging around on the hoist is not fun.

We did not remove the transfer case. You will have to loosen the motor mounts though (duh) and remove both the trans mount and crossmember. Then pivot the tranny down and use flex sockets and long extensions to get to the top (you should just barely be able to see them and get a socket in there). Also, pull the intake and coil packs to make it easier on yourself. There is also a plastic piece that a couple hoses are attached to on the back of the engine. We broke this when we pulled it out because we didn't know it was there. I think it was just a plastic friction pin holding it in place and we epoxied mine back together.