2006 Trailblazer EXT. NO CRANK/NO START

stvrob

Original poster
Member
May 28, 2014
139
Hello Im new here, I hadn't realized you all had migrated over from Trailvoy. I posted this over there but It seemed like it was getting stale so if its ok, I've copied and pasted it here.

My 2006 Trailblazer 4.2 L won't crank/start. The car is driven regularly. Some unusual symptoms:
1. Cannot crank the starter with key....Battery directly to the solenoid will crank (but not start) the engine.
2. Cannot establish a link with the PCM using my my code reader, after scanning for some time it says NO LINK or something to that effect. The code reader worked just the other day however.
3. With the key in RUN position, (or any position for that matter), the horizontal indicator line under P-R-N-D-2-1 dash display is not illuminated at all (i.e. the transmission can be shifted to any gear, but there is no indicator line beneath the display to show what gear it is in).
4. With the key in RUN the reverse lights do NOT illuminate in any transmission position. HOWEVER..The reverse lights DO turn on when the key FOB button is pushed (as it normally does for providing illumination while unloading).
5. In the engine compartment fuse block, I can verify correct operation of the Starter relay [47], and the adjacent Powertrain relay [57]. (to clarify, I pulled them out and checked that they function correctly...not connected to vehicle) I also checked most of the fuses. Also, Checked most of the fuses in the rear underseat fuse block.

The battery is not in excellent shape but it had no problem cranking the engine when I jumped directly to the starter solenoid. Ive had it on 2Amp charge all day to make sure I could run thru all the tests without running it down.

I Replaced the ignition switch in the hope that it would fix the problem after reading thru Trailvoy comments, but the problem is unchanged. I assume I set the teeth correctly....The key moves thru ACCY, RUN, and bounces back from the START position.

After hooking up the battery after changing the ignition switch, I went through the extended PASSLOCK relearn procedure, as descibed somewhere in this forum. It did not do anything. (The first time I tried it, I accidently left the lights on during the procedure and ran the battery down. Its been on 2 amp charge since then)
I looked at the transmission position indicator switch, it does not appear to be damaged, I might remove it to inspect it more closely.
Yesterday we had an electrical storm, and there was a real loud strike from the direction of the driveway where the vehicle was parked. However, I have found no physical evidence whatsoever of a ground strike near the vehicle.

This is my wife's vehicle, and she needs it for work tomorrow!

UPDATE. Since I wrote the above, I realize the lightning strike did cause damage to a 16-inch Oak which is about 75 ft away from where the truck was parked. Blew off a strip of bark from near the crown all the way to ground, the followed a root, blowing the soil out of the ground. However, its pretty far from the vehicle, and the root it followed along the ground went away from the vehicle.
 

The_Roadie

Lifetime VIP Donor
Member
Nov 19, 2011
9,957
Portland, OR
I'd start by seeing if the ignition switch has the correct power going to it.

RED on the ignition switch is 12V, fused by underhood fuse #34, and feeds the following three circuits:
White is hot in ACCY, RUN, START
Orange is hot in RUN
Yellow is hot in START

RED/WHITE is another 12V, fused by underhood fuse #36, and feeds two circuits:
Brown is hot in ACCY, RUN
Pink is hot in RUN, START

The OBDII port requires power to run many code readers. Check front fuse #13. If that has power, and your code reader just can't establish comm to the PCM< then it clearly looks like the EMP from the lightning strike took out the PCM or another fuse related to the PCM. The huge current in the lightning strike that went vertically down to ground, induces current in nearby wires, and the PCM is internally protected like a surge protector on all the pins that go to the outside world. But the energy could have been enough to fry the PCM or blow a fuse just from the induced current. It may be a more expensive repair if you have to source a PCM and get it programmed. Might be time to call PCMofNC for a tune installed in a used PCM. Cheaper than a dealer visit in any event.
 

BRomanJr

Member
Dec 9, 2011
371
Another Intelligent module on the Serial bus could have been affected by the lightning strike (or just a coincidental failure) and it could be taking down communications.

Might be worth it to find the 2 splice packs and troubleshoot the Serial bus.
 

stvrob

Original poster
Member
May 28, 2014
139
Thanks for all the replies. [Edit..Ignore, I misread a pin diagram] I have I tried to trace one of the wires from the PCM (C1-pin 20; thickish orange wire) up to the fuse box under the hood (fuse 10 PCM B) which brings B+ to the ). This is circuit 440 on a diagram I found somewhere. I do not have continuity between the fuse 10 and pin 20 (c1 Blue) at the pcm. Seems a little suspicious that the very first wire I tested lacks continuity. I am in the process now of lifting the main fuse box out to expose the wiring underneath to expose the blocks under the fuse panel. So far I have found no evidence anywhere of anything fried from excessive current though. Could a single wire just fail?


Edit: I forgot to mention, before I started tracing this wire, something different happened this morning, when I turned the key to the run position, some actuator in/near the throttle body started fluttering around making a noise, and the MIL lamp was flicking on and off apparently in sync with the actuator fluttering around.
 

stvrob

Original poster
Member
May 28, 2014
139
Mr. Roadie;
I established contact with your friends at PCM of NC, even though I am not yet convinced the PCM is actually damaged. Also, my wife has contacted a dealership, and they have her scared that a lightning strike may have damaged a whole bunch of other systems other than the pcm. (ie, she thinks we should tow it to the dealership so we can begin the process of draining our life savings.
Perhaps other components MIGHT have been damaged, but I have found no evidence that large surges of current have moved through any part of the vehicle. I suppose it is possible that the Body Control Unit could also be damaged, but would I be correct in assuming that component does not need to be specially programmed for each individual vehicle?, And that it could be replaced with a unit right out of the box if necessary?
 

IllogicTC

Member
Dec 30, 2013
3,452
No PRNDL showing, and no reverse lights when in reverse, it sounds a LOT like you should be looking at the PRNDL switch on the left side of the transmission.

This same switch is used as part of the starter interlock.
 
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The_Roadie

Lifetime VIP Donor
Member
Nov 19, 2011
9,957
Portland, OR
GM designers made sure the BCM also demands a GM Tech II tool run a configuration process before any of the options will work. Evil designers.

In my experience troubleshooting damage done after 2000V high energy pulses in my lab, may indeed have a cascade of faults. And the only way to troubleshoot them is one layer at a time. But the dealer is being an alarmist. If you do end up bringing it there, demand proof that any component is bad if they change it and try to charge you. Have them guarantee their process and any parts changed for diagnostic purposes will be removed for no charge if they don't help the problem.
 

stvrob

Original poster
Member
May 28, 2014
139
I'd like to thank everyone for their responses. It seems that the PCM is powered properly, is grounded properly, and is getting a proper signal from the P-N safety switch. The Interface port for my code reader is powered, but it cannot establish a data link with the PCM. The ignition switch is properly powered, and the proper leads are powered at the proper switch positions, and not a single fuse has blown. The P-N switch is properly powered, and there is continuity in the park position all the way back to the PCM. I have concluded that the PCM indeed must be malfunctioning, so I am going to contact PCM of NC about a replacement.

When I ask them for a replacement, is there any modification to the software I should request? My only real gripe about the pcm is the way the cruise control seems so rigidly stuck on the set speed, that it downshifts even when just going climbing an overpass. (I am not certain, but I don't recall it doing this before we switched to E10 fuel). Would one of their performance enhancements help in this regard?

Also, does anyone know if the vehicle will be at all driveable prior to performing the CASE ReLearn procedure? I don't have a tech 2 Scan tool and I would hope I could drive it far enough to get someone to do this procedure.
 

bobdec

Member
Apr 19, 2013
233
stvrob, if you have comprehensive coverage on your auto policy it may cover a 'lightning strike'. Reimbursement depends on your deductalbe option selections.. Something to keep in mind if there are other problems, and you have to go to a dealer. In that case it would be good to get a claim opened just in case you need to use it.
 

bobdec

Member
Apr 19, 2013
233
No.. a basic performance tune will not 'usually' alter shifting tables, shift pressure, torque management and timing yes..
As far as the downshift or gear hunting w/cruise on.. the engineers set it up as follows... attached are the Normal and Cruise shift point tables. Take a look at the 4>3 down-shift settings and then look at the 3>4 up-shift settings between normal and cruise tables. You will see at the higher throttle position you will downshift 4>3 sooner in cruise and upshift 3>4 later at lower throttle position. EG at 50% TPS in cruise you will drop to 3rd at 44 MPH however you will not go back to 4th till you are at 48 with the TPS backed down to 19% or 106 MPH with TPS @ 25% and @ 255 MPH (never) with TPS at or above 31%. The Normal tables are a little less dramatic in the changes. There are also Torque converter engage/disengage tables for normal and cruise. Basically the same effect as the shifting tables. TC cuts out sooner and engages later in cruise mode, did not post these to save space. I've tuned the shift tables for my Camaro Z28 , but I have not yet started tuning my Envoy (software is $500.00). I do however have a $99.00 performance tune from Lime-Swap, very happy with the tune and his service...
 

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stvrob

Original poster
Member
May 28, 2014
139
Bob. Thanks for posting that. I hadn't realized how dramatically different the shift points were in cruise control. It leaves me wondering why they even have them different to begin with?
 

IllogicTC

Member
Dec 30, 2013
3,452
stvrob said:
Bob. Thanks for posting that. I hadn't realized how dramatically different the shift points were in cruise control. It leaves me wondering why they even have them different to begin with?
Probably in an effort to do exactly what you mentioned on, about trying fairly aggressively to maintain road speed. I myself don't mind a cruise that loses up to about 5MPH on uphill parts, it's not that much difference in most cases. Might be engineer choice, or maybe it was complaints from drivers.

One thing you can take advantage of is holding a residential speed (25 MPH) with potential fuel savings using cruise. Without cruise, mine will hold a bit over 1000 RPMs when on a level street doing 25. Turn on cruise, it suddenly drops below 1000, if I remember right it's in the 800-900 range.
 

stvrob

Original poster
Member
May 28, 2014
139
Just an update to keep the thread alive, still waiting on a new PCM from PCM of NC. should be here Wed. I sure hope its really the problem. We haven't had use of the vehicle since Memorial Day.
 

stvrob

Original poster
Member
May 28, 2014
139
Installed my new PCM from PCM if NC today (stock). After the key relearn it started right up. However...
I have some codes:
P0014 camshaft phase angle error
P0449 EVAP vent control circuit fault.
P0463 fuel level sensor (the fuel level guage was already broken, haven't got around to dropping the tank)
P0315 not sure-related to CASE relearn procedure?

Also I have the ABS Lt, the Stabilitrak indicator lt, the Stabilitrak service lt, and the change oil lt on. And of course the MIL too. Are these lights related to a new PCM?

I drove it about 20 miles trying to follow a procedure I found online for doing a crankshaft variation relearn without a scan tool. It drove fine but I guess it didn't work.
 

stvrob

Original poster
Member
May 28, 2014
139
So what should I do about the ABS light, the Stabilitrak service light, and the Stabilitrak indicator light? Is there any logical reason they would have come on when the new PCM was installed? Should I drive it awhile more and see if it relearns something? Or could this be a separate failure caused by the nearby lightning strike?
 

The_Roadie

Lifetime VIP Donor
Member
Nov 19, 2011
9,957
Portland, OR
Could be separate. Did you check the dash area (down by the passenger side of the transmission tunnel), the ABS module (on the frame rail under the driver's seat area) and the fender grounds (on the driver's side near the battery)?
 

stvrob

Original poster
Member
May 28, 2014
139
No. Not yet. So you mean check the condition of the grounds at each of those locations? I will do so first thing in the AM.
 

stvrob

Original poster
Member
May 28, 2014
139
I was thinking at first all of these were normal after replacing the PCM. I guess you might have been right when you suggested there could have been a cascade of failures from the lightning strike.
Hopefully it is just a ground problem though.
 

stvrob

Original poster
Member
May 28, 2014
139
You mention a grounding point on the passenger side of the transmission tunnel. Is that under the carpet? Or under the vehicle?
 

stvrob

Original poster
Member
May 28, 2014
139
I found it. Those grounds are good, except I didn't actually find a ground at the ABS module. Is the chassis of the unit the ground at that location?
And is it safe to drive the vehicle with those lights illuminated? (ABS Light, StabiliTrack Service Light, and StabiliTrak Indicator Light). I mean assuming the brake control module might be damaged by the lightning surge just as the pcm was, would that just mean no ABS and no Stabilitrak, Should I pull a fuse or something to make sure the unit doesnt go haywire on me while Im driving? I still need to drive it somewhere to get the CASE ReLearn procedure done.

And if the Brake Control Module had a malfunction, is it the pcm that would store the code? How about if it was completely dead? With my cheap little $20 Actron code reader, there were not any codes relating to brake function.

Also, one other question, the P0014 code (Cam phase angle error) Would this be related to the need for CASE ReLearn? How about the P0135 code? That one wasnt in my Hayes Manual, is that related to the need for the CASE Relearn as well?
I pulled out the camshaft position actuator thing and cleaned up the inlet screens, also cleaned the throttle body.
 

Andres

Member
Mar 23, 2017
2
New York
I found it. Those grounds are good, except I didn't actually find a ground at the ABS module. Is the chassis of the unit the ground at that location?
And is it safe to drive the vehicle with those lights illuminated? (ABS Light, StabiliTrack Service Light, and StabiliTrak Indicator Light). I mean assuming the brake control module might be damaged by the lightning surge just as the pcm was, would that just mean no ABS and no Stabilitrak, Should I pull a fuse or something to make sure the unit doesnt go haywire on me while Im driving? I still need to drive it somewhere to get the CASE ReLearn procedure done.

And if the Brake Control Module had a malfunction, is it the pcm that would store the code? How about if it was completely dead? With my cheap little $20 Actron code reader, there were not any codes relating to brake function.

Also, one other question, the P0014 code (Cam phase angle error) Would this be related to the need for CASE ReLearn? How about the P0135 code? That one wasnt in my Hayes Manual, is that related to the need for the CASE Relearn as well?
I pulled out the camshaft position actuator thing and cleaned up the inlet screens, also cleaned the throttle body.
 

Mooseman

Moderator
Dec 4, 2011
25,324
Ottawa, ON
Wrong thread. There is no key relearn since there is no chip in it.
 

Mooseman

Moderator
Dec 4, 2011
25,324
Ottawa, ON

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