2004 Trailblazer LT - I6 4x4 - Brake Caliper Replace

[webdawg]

So the front driver side of the vehicle creeks when applying the brakes. It has been doing this for a while and after searching for the sound I think it is the front drivers caliper. I did a brake job on this over a year ago and did everything right so none of that.

It does not look like they really have any specific rebuild 'kits'. You can purchase the seal 'kits' and a piston so I suppose that is the rebuild kit. I was really thinking about rebuilding what I have but I really cannot deal with any downtime right now so it looks like I am going down the path of re-manufactured calipers. I did not want to deal with opening up the caliper and then the cylinder is bad, or I do not have the right parts, etc.

It looks like rockauto has a huge selection of re-manufactured brake calipers including ACDELCO remans.

Anyone have any advice on this? I was thinking about just doing the front two, the rears seem just fine but it would be no thing to do the rears.

It looks like for the front two for this vehicle are:

http://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=889818&cc=1424281&jsn=569
ACDELCO 18FR1891 {#19141933} Professional Durastop|Friction Ready|Remanufactured
Front Left; Trailblazer Base Model

http://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=888495&cc=1424281
ACDELCO 18FR1893 {#19141935} Professional Durastop|Friction Ready|Remanufactured
Front Right; Trailblazer Base Model

They are 40.89 a piece with a 45.00 core. That in my eyes is a decent deal. I know it is not a huge amount of working making them new but I am thinking they would do a bit more work then someone like me would do re manufacturing them. It looks like they come with new crush washers too.

I can get the rear set for about the same:

http://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=959140&cc=1424281
ACDELCO 18FR2079 {#19156693} Professional Durastop|Friction Ready|Remanufactured
Rear Left

http://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=959067&cc=1424281
ACDELCO 18FR2080 {#19156694} Professional Durastop|Friction Ready|Remanufactured
Rear Right

One of the things I do not know is that there are wheel bases listed. I just have the LT model as stated in the topic. Do I need to go measure my wheel base? They have things like 129.0" Wheelbase and 113.0" wheelbase. These are only on the listings for the other re-manufactures.

Speaking of that, if you look through this list: http://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/...,4.2l+l6,1424281,brake/wheel+hub,caliper,1704

They have quite a decent amount of (re)manufactures that build these things, some of them are 'posi-quite' and powder coated. Any recommendations?

Do I need to replace the pads? Looking at them yesterday there is no damage and they are fairly new. I really do not think I need to.

I know I need to bleed the brakes after this. I have bled brakes before with the push the pedal down, hold, and close method. I was thinking about getting something like this though so I could do it on my own if ever needed: http://www.harborfreight.com/brake-bleeder-and-vacuum-pump-kit-69328.html What do you think?

I can use it to test vacuum too. The only thing I know is that after bleeding the brakes is to engage the ABS system too.

I was also thinking about replacing the final run brake lines. The car has 170k on it and those lines are OEM. They have no rust but I have heard about the rubber getting weak. I know the TB has a soft pedal (but it works) but I am wondering if this could be a contributor. I have had the brakes professionally bled at one point thinking it was an issue but sometimes it seems like the pedal will go pretty far, far enough to make me uncomfortable. The vehicle has never had a problem stopping.

 

[Wooluf1952]

The 129" wheel base is the extended truck, 113" is the short truck.
Before changing the calipers, try spraying the upper and lower control arm bushings with WD-40 or penetrating oil of your choice. They have been known to squeak when worn.

 

[Mooseman]

Or it might just be the sliders. They're known to seize up, especially if the boots are torn. Penetrating oil and muscle usually gets them freed up. Check before condemning the caliper itself. If it's the sliders, you can buy a hardware kit to fix them up.

Here's an even easier way to tell short vs. long wheelbase:
5 passenger: short 113" wheelbase
7 passenger: long 129" wheelbase

 

[webdawg]

I think the sliders are fine, used some really nice brake stuff when I put them together.

I will try and grease some suspension parts, it looks like someone put a ton of grease in one control arm bushing.

It looks like they have lower control arm bushings, aftermarket, any ruling on how difficult to change all 4 lowers?

 

[Tiggerr]

From what I've seen they're a pita. Way easier to just replace the LCA and bracket. That gives you the ball joint too..

IMHO

 

[webdawg]

From what I've seen they're a pita. Way easier to just replace the LCA and bracket. That gives you the ball joint too..

IMHO

I have never looked at it, you cant just take the bolts out, drop the arm with almost everything still attached?

Undo the front axle, will it not pivot?

 

[webdawg]

The job is done. The brake caliper job. I replaced all the calipers and rubber brake hoses. Man I need to figure out a better way to bleed. I went through way too much fluid because of false bubbles and a tired mind.