i have a 2002 chevy trailblazer it died on my wife so i had it towed to the local dealership, they told it needed a starter i did not believe them so i got it home and crossed the starter over and tried to start, i replaced the fuel pump the other day and its still not wanting to start. The only that comes on is the headlights dash lights but does not want to do anything else.
2002 chevy trailblazer wont turn over or start
- Thread starter quearry78
- Start date
Welcome! Incompetent dealer stories are far too prevalent.
So what happens when you turn the key to START? Any clicks from the front fuse block that would indicate the starter relay is being activated? Do the dash and headlights go out when you go to START?
If not, the ignition switch is a huge suspect. Do you have a meter and want to confirm it by checking the voltage at the switch wiring?
So what happens when you turn the key to START? Any clicks from the front fuse block that would indicate the starter relay is being activated? Do the dash and headlights go out when you go to START?
If not, the ignition switch is a huge suspect. Do you have a meter and want to confirm it by checking the voltage at the switch wiring?
It does nothing when I try to start it. Its like your trying to start it in a gear other than park or Neutral. I just put a $ 300 fuel pump and I don't have the money to just start replacing everything. Before it died the engine light started to flash every once in a while and it would hesitate like a fuel pump would do.
IllogicTC
Member
- Dec 30, 2013
- 3,452
If you don't have a multimeter, HF has a basic model for under $10. It's not going to be the be-all end-all runner-up to a Fluke by far. Sometimes they may need a little calibration, too (using a fresh D-cell battery hooked to the leads, there's a potentiometer inside you can adjust until it read 1.52 volts -information gathered from reviews on HF's site) but for basic quick-and-dirty testing it will satisfy your needs.
I myself have four multimeters, none HF though. I think I have a problem.
I myself have four multimeters, none HF though. I think I have a problem.
We'll I got the thing to try to turn over the PCM fuse was blown but now it still won't start so think maybe a ground could an issue coming off the fuse box or the PCM
sounds like you have a few issues--#1 is your non-start. as stated above get a multi-meter and trace your voltage. also as you stated check your grounds. also check for else is not working and check for more blown fuses.
#2 you flashing check engine light--you need to get the codes read--sounds like you might have a cylinder misfiring.
#2 you flashing check engine light--you need to get the codes read--sounds like you might have a cylinder misfiring.
Fuses blow for a reason. I'd be inspecting the harnesses very closely between the fuse block and the PCM.
WHICH PCM fuse was blown? That may also contain a clue.
WHICH PCM fuse was blown? That may also contain a clue.
It was a 15 fuse put a 20 and it's not blown it. The car tries to start but for some reason I am not getting any fuel to the fuel rail and the fuel pump kicks on now
IllogicTC
Member
- Dec 30, 2013
- 3,452
On the subject of fuse-blowing troubleshooting, Littelfuse offers a bunch of circuit breaker types for automotives, and the idea first hit me from an EricTheCarGuy video where he mentions using this method. Swap the fuse for a PROPERLY-SIZED breaker, and get to work. Manually-tripping ones I would say are better than auto-closing ones, as it forces your attention to the lack of power. Still cheaper than buying a pack of fuses just to burn them up. Littelfuse offers MINI breakers, they're designed to fit the MINI fuse slot but they're a bit taller than a fuse. It's "MIB X", where X is the amperage needed. Unfortunately offered only in "Type II," modified reset. No manual reset option, but these don't reset until power is removed from the hot side.
If you can remember whether you popped PCM I or PCM B it would be an immense help. I would assume PCM I, as that's a 15A while PCM B is a 20A standard. This fuse provides one of the power circuits to the PCM (though I'm not sure what it feeds internally), and also the injectors and coils. I will report back if I can figure out how PCM I affects other things.
If you can remember whether you popped PCM I or PCM B it would be an immense help. I would assume PCM I, as that's a 15A while PCM B is a 20A standard. This fuse provides one of the power circuits to the PCM (though I'm not sure what it feeds internally), and also the injectors and coils. I will report back if I can figure out how PCM I affects other things.
We'll I have narrowed down to two things and I am pretty sure on the one but I don't know because I don't have the equipment to test for sure but it's either the PCM or the igition switch. The ignition switch control the PCM and if the fuse is getting blown by grounding out then the igition switch controls the PCM would cause me not to get fire or fuel right?
Without a meter, you're still troubleshooting in the dark and guessing. Is it out of the question to do a structured diagnostic process and start with checking the ignition switch? Then inspecting the harness using the manuals that Mooseman makes available for downloading? If you're not up for a structured process do you have a trusted independent mechanic you can use?
To help us give you useful advice - could you share a bit of your experience and what tools you DO have?
To help us give you useful advice - could you share a bit of your experience and what tools you DO have?
IllogicTC
Member
- Dec 30, 2013
- 3,452
A visual check is always worth a shot - and free! Though obviously may or may not provide some evidence, or no evidence at all.
Connector 1 I believe is the blue connector at the PCM. At some point between it and the fuse block is connector C100. C100 is a 10-pin connector, but only has 8 pins used. The wire colors on it are Red/Black, two gray, two black, light green, tan, and pink. The pink wire is the one coming from PCM-I fuse to the PCM itself.
PCM connector 1 (the blue one) should only have ONE pink wire running into it. Inspect the wire from this connector to connector C100, then onward to the fuse block. It's wrapped up in a bundle with a bunch of other crap and it wouldn't be surprising if it's shorting to another wire or maybe to metal somewhere.
Again, if the wire is undamaged then your fix isn't had yet, but it will at least discredit one theory.
Connector 1 I believe is the blue connector at the PCM. At some point between it and the fuse block is connector C100. C100 is a 10-pin connector, but only has 8 pins used. The wire colors on it are Red/Black, two gray, two black, light green, tan, and pink. The pink wire is the one coming from PCM-I fuse to the PCM itself.
PCM connector 1 (the blue one) should only have ONE pink wire running into it. Inspect the wire from this connector to connector C100, then onward to the fuse block. It's wrapped up in a bundle with a bunch of other crap and it wouldn't be surprising if it's shorting to another wire or maybe to metal somewhere.
Again, if the wire is undamaged then your fix isn't had yet, but it will at least discredit one theory.
Welcome, but you gave us no way to help you. Start back at post #2 in this thread and give us more details.Bernardo Otero said:
Hi I'm new to this site. I have an 07 tb that won't crank, I did the test from the starter relay and found out that it's not getting grounded at the relay when I turn the key to start.
And the is the pcm case have a ground? Had to hardwire it from the ignition To starter. It works but I rather find the problem