2 quarts of oil, no big symptoms and no leaks?

Gerbil21

Original poster
Member
May 28, 2014
839
ok well my brother has a 05 tb with around 135k that had 2 quarts of oil in it today

either way as the title says there are no big symptoms

he has not had the car for long only a few months but it has been good

here is a list of what has been done:
oil change with mobil synthetic 5w-30
intake manifold and intake ports cleaned (since i dropped the tb connector clip in there :no:)
tb cleaned
thermostat change (the original one was no good)
air filter changed

now onto the specifics of the vehicle:
it has not had spark plugs done, i pulled one out and it was a 41-103 and it looked good

the truck has a shake when in drive that goes away and completely smooths out in park or neutral, but it goes away when fully warmed
it drives good but it does have a cel p0014 we would change the cpas but we cant it is stuck in the head we tried pb blaster and we tried sticking a screw driver in between the cpas and the head and nothing

it does have a bad smell from the exhaust when revved or time to time at idle not like a bad gas smell but just a nasty burnt smell
it does also have a blue tint to the exhaust when revved or while driving which would be oil burning but it really is not that bad like a diesel just a light blue and my brother says he can see the smoke from the exhaust time to time while taking off from a stop
the exhaust pipe is coated with a black soot
also at idle the vacuum is 21" and is steady

ok so now onto the main part:

my brother has said that the other day the truck turned off while idling and right before it flashed the low oil light
i searched this and came to the conclusion that it was the oil pressure switch but today made me think again, today he told me the gauge would go back and forth and the low oil pressure would show on the dash and the reduced engine power light will come on also. he also said the truck will shut off time to time when he was waiting at a light which still went with the oil pressure switch being bad but we checked the oil level and found something else

there was no oil on the dipstick! :confused:
the oil cap was milky and so was the pcv tube
the coolant level has no changed so its not that
but the dipstick showed nothing so we had a extra quart of the same oil and the level stood at nothing so then we mixed some quaker state advanced synthetic and still nothing so we got a drain pan that had measurement markings and when we drained the oil the most we got was 4 quarts and it was dark. you can also see it was mixed with what looked like water since you can see a clear topping over the oil under it and it dripped off a glove like water with some staying on the glove.
at the bottom of the pan there was darker more burnt smelling oil but still not bad especially since it was running on the highway with 2 quarts. while i was under the car i noticed no leaks at all

so now we put the same oil back just for now and we put in some gtx conventional and kendall part synthetic which gives us 6 quarts and it is marking correct on the middle of the dipstick

so now to the big question where the hell did 5 quarts go???? :confused:
 

The_Roadie

Lifetime VIP Donor
Member
Nov 19, 2011
9,957
Portland, OR
Sounds like he should have been checking the level more often on a new truck with unknown maintenance history.

Check compression.
 
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HARDTRAILZ

Moderator
Nov 18, 2011
49,665
Motor mounts for vibration.
 

Gerbil21

Original poster
Member
May 28, 2014
839
HARDTRAILZ said:
Motor mounts for vibration.
would it go away when warm?

The_Roadie said:
Sounds like he should have been checking the level more often on a new truck with unknown maintenance history.

Check compression.
yea should of had, also i will probably pull all plugs and do a compression check this sunday
 

Gerbil21

Original poster
Member
May 28, 2014
839
The_Roadie said:
That's one of the PRIME tests of bad motor mounts. Vibration only in DRIVE that goes away when warm. Eventually it will NOT go away when warm, and that's when you've deferred the fix too long.
good to know and thanks but any ideas on where the 5 qaurts went if it did burn 5 quarts im shure it would be puffing blue smoke all the time. i know valve seals leak on theses engines but it looked good when i had the intake off no oil drips or stains. also vacuum was good and steady so it can't be rings or valves so then what?

and any ideas on getting the cpas off? also one thing i forgot to mention is that the exhaust pipe is coated with a black soot.
 

HARDTRAILZ

Moderator
Nov 18, 2011
49,665
Who changed the oil last? Do they know these motors take 7 quarts or did they throw 4.5 or 5 in it like the older GM 6 cylinders took?
 
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Gerbil21

Original poster
Member
May 28, 2014
839
HARDTRAILZ said:
Who changed the oil last? Do they know these motors take 7 quarts or did they throw 4.5 or 5 in it like the older GM 6 cylinders took?
we did, we only got 6 quarts back in so some did stay behind we also changed the oil on my envoy same day and we also got in only a little more than 6 quarts but both were around 6 quarts

the first two quarts we added were the left over two bottles
 

Gerbil21

Original poster
Member
May 28, 2014
839
also for the exhaust pipe soot i found this in another forum that describes it pretty good
http://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=2426852

Some cars shoot "black liquid" out of the exhaust that appears to defy all conventional explanations.

Its not Head Gasket smoke
it MAY be fuel smoke (but its not smoke)
It IS black and it is liquid
it drips out of the pipe
and it stains the ground as ink when it appears.
Then it goes away.


I too have not been completely been able to explain what that stuff is, nor how it gets through all that piping, past a cat and muffler, to the tailpipe.
21.gif


Might be carbon might be gas but its "black liquid." literally then it stops.

21.gif


Havent seen it in awhile but i have heard people with old Chevy trucks say they ruined their pants walking behind their truck when it used to do that. So its apparently an (old) GM thing. And again idk what it is.
 

HARDTRAILZ

Moderator
Nov 18, 2011
49,665
Gerbil21 said:
ok well my brother has a 05 tb with around 135k that had 2 quarts of oil in it today


here is a list of what has been done:
oil change with mobil synthetic 5w-30

my brother has said that the other day the truck turned off while idling and right before it flashed the low oil light
i searched this and came to the conclusion that it was the oil pressure switch but today made me think again, today he told me the gauge would go back and forth and the low oil pressure would show on the dash and the reduced engine power light will come on also. he also said the truck will shut off time to time when he was waiting at a light which still went with the oil pressure switch being bad but we checked the oil level and found something else

there was no oil on the dipstick! :confused:

but the dipstick showed nothing so we had a extra quart of the same oil and the level stood at nothing so then we mixed some quaker state advanced synthetic and still nothing so we got a drain pan that had measurement markings and when we drained the oil the most we got was 4 quarts and it was dark. you can also see it was mixed with what looked like water since you can see a clear topping over the oil under it and it dripped off a glove like water with some staying on the glove.
at the bottom of the pan there was darker more burnt smelling oil but still not bad especially since it was running on the highway with 2 quarts. while i was under the car i noticed no leaks at all

so now we put the same oil back just for now and we put in some gtx conventional and kendall part synthetic which gives us 6 quarts and it is marking correct on the middle of the dipstick
Who did this oil change? How much was put in then? How many miles since this oil change?


Really...You thought the switch was bad BEFORE bothering to check the oil. Wow.


You have 6 quarts in but did not change filter. And you put the dark burnt oil back in it. WTF?

You have notable smoke and a burnt smell at exhaust yet you do not think that could be your issue. You have soot on the exhaust which would be common for burning oil, but you find a black liquid theory that makes lil sense since you do not have liquid coming out.

Sure sounds like everything points to burning it.
 
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Gerbil21

Original poster
Member
May 28, 2014
839
HARDTRAILZ said:
Who did this oil change? How much was put in then? How many miles since this oil change?


Really...You thought the switch was bad BEFORE bothering to check the oil. Wow.


You have 6 quarts in but did not change filter. And you put the dark burnt oil back in it. WTF?

You have notable smoke and a burnt smell at exhaust yet you do not think that could be your issue. You have soot on the exhaust which would be common for burning oil, but you find a black liquid theory that makes lil sense since you do not have liquid coming out.

Sure sounds like everything points to burning it.
i said this, we did the oil change and we only got 6 quarts in with a filter change im not shure of miles but probably 1-2k

my brother told me that it had turned off and we check the level but that was right after the car turned off so ofc it wouldn't show low, after that nothing happened and i thought nothing of it after a quick search pointed towards the switch having the EXACT symptoms.

last night my brother told me that it happened again so i said ill check in the morning which would be today and how i found no oil

we now have 6 quarts after adding the two we had left over from the first oil change and two that we had that were extra for a while and yes we put it back in we only drained the oil to see if there really was only 2 quarts in there. we are not driving the car we just put it there to check the level that is why we added the two extras that were sitting around.

yes we do have blue smoke and a burnt smell but not a oil burning smell more of a bad cat maybe also no i did not think that could be the issue since it was barley that much smoke and it would only happen time to time. also as i said i dont think its the valves since i did not notice dripping oil when the intake was off and also i doubt its rings when i got a steady 21" vacuum.

also yes there is soot on the exhaust and im not saying thats its not burning oil just that i dont think its enough to go through 5 quarts. also we do have that "black liquid" which is why i said it describes it exactly
 

coolasice

Member
Oct 27, 2013
1,019
Northern Maine
if its not leaking, not in the radiator, then its burning it. oil does not evaporate...

do a compression test.
 

Gerbil21

Original poster
Member
May 28, 2014
839
coolasice said:
if its not leaking, not in the radiator, then its burning it. oil does not evaporate...
i understand that but i already mentioned two and why i think its not there but where else
 

Gerbil21

Original poster
Member
May 28, 2014
839
coolasice said:
if its not leaking, not in the radiator, then its burning it. oil does not evaporate...

do a compression test.
OK well its not in the radiator since level is fine,its not leaking

And it is burning oil but where?

I guess I'll wait till Sunday when I'll do the compression check
 

Playsinsnow

Member
Nov 17, 2012
9,727
Gerbil21 said:
And it is burning oil but where?
In the head where the pistons are pumping. Poor compression will allow oil to escape and burn off. A good synthetic (mobil1 stopped my wife's car from burning oil- I know bc I beat the snot out of it :biggrin:) oil will help some if it's not terrible. Watch the level for 100miles, 500 miles, and 1000+ and take note of when it happens.
:twocents:
 

Gerbil21

Original poster
Member
May 28, 2014
839
Playsinsnow said:
In the head where the pistons are pumping. Poor compression will allow oil to escape and burn off. A good synthetic (mobil1 stopped my wife's car from burning oil- I know bc I beat the snot out of it [emoji3]) oil will help some if it's not terrible. Watch the level for 100miles, 500 miles, and 1000+ and take note of when it happens.
:twocents:
Ill have to wait till Sunday for compression check but as for the oil I think I'll use a quick flush to get all the old fluid out and then fill up with a good high milage synthetic.
 

Gerbil21

Original poster
Member
May 28, 2014
839
should i go with 10w-30 instead?
 

HARDTRAILZ

Moderator
Nov 18, 2011
49,665
I know full synthetic can allow more oil consumption. My buddy had issues with his 09 jeep using oil until he finally took my advice and went dino oil. Now he adds none between changes and saves money.
 

Gerbil21

Original poster
Member
May 28, 2014
839
HARDTRAILZ said:
I know full synthetic can allow more oil consumption. My buddy had issues with his 09 jeep using oil until he finally took my advice and went dino oil. Now he adds none between changes and saves money.
ok well how about part synthetic iirc its dino oil with additives so it wont be thin like synthetic or any recommendations on what to get or whats good with these engines
 

HARDTRAILZ

Moderator
Nov 18, 2011
49,665
I use whatever dino or blend is on sale and have no issues at 170k. I am not the easiest on my truck.
 
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Playsinsnow

Member
Nov 17, 2012
9,727
You said jeep :raspberry:. I've run our I6 TB without losing a drop on mobil1 for 125k now. Dino is "fine". But I've seen my DIC oil life range increase 40%. Maybe not worth the cost dollar to dollar, but a lot cleaner looking at 6k miles. I go 9 months 8-9k with 30ish% left.
 
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NJTB

Member
Aug 27, 2012
612
Flemington, NJ
Gerbil21 said:
ok well my brother has a 05 tb with around 135k that had 2 quarts of oil in it today

either way as the title says there are no big symptoms

he has not had the car for long only a few months but it has been good

here is a list of what has been done:
oil change with mobil synthetic 5w-30
intake manifold and intake ports cleaned (since i dropped the tb connector clip in there :no:)
tb cleaned
thermostat change (the original one was no good)
air filter changed

now onto the specifics of the vehicle:
it has not had spark plugs done, i pulled one out and it was a 41-103 and it looked good

the truck has a shake when in drive that goes away and completely smooths out in park or neutral, but it goes away when fully warmed
it drives good but it does have a cel p0014 we would change the cpas but we cant it is stuck in the head we tried pb blaster and we tried sticking a screw driver in between the cpas and the head and nothing

it does have a bad smell from the exhaust when revved or time to time at idle not like a bad gas smell but just a nasty burnt smell
it does also have a blue tint to the exhaust when revved or while driving which would be oil burning but it really is not that bad like a diesel just a light blue and my brother says he can see the smoke from the exhaust time to time while taking off from a stop
the exhaust pipe is coated with a black soot
also at idle the vacuum is 21" and is steady

ok so now onto the main part:

my brother has said that the other day the truck turned off while idling and right before it flashed the low oil light
i searched this and came to the conclusion that it was the oil pressure switch but today made me think again, today he told me the gauge would go back and forth and the low oil pressure would show on the dash and the reduced engine power light will come on also. he also said the truck will shut off time to time when he was waiting at a light which still went with the oil pressure switch being bad but we checked the oil level and found something else

there was no oil on the dipstick! :confused:
the oil cap was milky and so was the pcv tube
the coolant level has no changed so its not that
but the dipstick showed nothing so we had a extra quart of the same oil and the level stood at nothing so then we mixed some quaker state advanced synthetic and still nothing so we got a drain pan that had measurement markings and when we drained the oil the most we got was 4 quarts and it was dark. you can also see it was mixed with what looked like water since you can see a clear topping over the oil under it and it dripped off a glove like water with some staying on the glove.
at the bottom of the pan there was darker more burnt smelling oil but still not bad especially since it was running on the highway with 2 quarts. while i was under the car i noticed no leaks at all

so now we put the same oil back just for now and we put in some gtx conventional and kendall part synthetic which gives us 6 quarts and it is marking correct on the middle of the dipstick

so now to the big question where the hell did 5 quarts go???? :confused:



How long was it from the time you did the oil change and then finding out there was very little oil in it? Change it with a new filter and monitor the level frequently.
You mentioned there was a 'milky residue' on the oil cap, but the radiator was full and not leaking. Sometimes this will happen when the car is driven for a bunch of short hops over time. It's condensation. The thermostat being bad didn't help either, as the engine wasn't up to temperature to burn off the moisture, and that could add to the problem. If the overflow tank was empty, I'd say look at a head gasket.
On a car with high miles, don't worry about a minor blue tint in the exhaust, especially when warming up. If it's puffing smoke after driving for a while, thats a different story, but could be related to dirty oil.
 

Gerbil21

Original poster
Member
May 28, 2014
839
How long was it from the time you did the oil change and then finding out there was very little oil in it?

"Around 2k"

Change it with a new filter and monitor the level frequently.

"Yea we are going to do the oil change tomorrow and monitor it all the time"

You mentioned there was a 'milky residue' on the oil cap, but the radiator was full and not leaking. Sometimes this will happen when the car is driven for a bunch of short hops over time. It's condensation. The thermostat being bad didn't help either, as the engine wasn't up to temperature to burn off the moisture, and that could add to the problem. If the overflow tank was empty, I'd say look at a head gasket.
On a car with high miles, don't worry about a minor blue tint in the exhaust, especially when warming up.

"The thermostat was changed before oil change and usually my brother let's it idle for a few minutes and it fully warm by then and then its driven on the highway for a few miles which is more than enough to have it hot."
"Also we drove it yesterday and no smoke so far on start up"

If it's puffing smoke after driving for a while, thats a different story, but could be related to dirty oil.

"OK now for the story, yesterday my dad drove it with the oil mix and he said while driving it started to smoke bad he saw a thick white smoke that covered the block behind him, after that it never happened again so maybe the oil mix got thicker like what would be our oil change tomorrow with Dino oil and it helped. There is also a lot of water in the tailpipe"

Also just to say my thoughts I don't think it valve seals because it should be smoking on start up all the time right?

Also it can't be rings since vacuum was good and steady but correct me if I'm wrong wouldn't carbon build up do the same causing the rings to stick which would burn oil faster.
 

Gerbil21

Original poster
Member
May 28, 2014
839
Anyone have ideas on getting the Cpas out
 
May 5, 2013
434
Gerbil21 said:
"OK now for the story, yesterday my dad drove it with the oil mix and he said while driving it started to smoke bad he saw a thick white smoke that covered the block behind him,

Isn't white smoke a sign of the motor running lean?
 

Gerbil21

Original poster
Member
May 28, 2014
839
I will check the live data today if I can find my Bluetooth obd anything specific to look for or at?
 
May 5, 2013
434
i just googled around a bit and white smoke could also be burning antifreeze. I think that would apply more to your situation...

Edit: I'm not a mechanic nor do I play one on T.V. but if youre loosing oil and white smoke which could be antifreeze, I'd be looking at the head gasket...
 

Playsinsnow

Member
Nov 17, 2012
9,727

Gerbil21

Original poster
Member
May 28, 2014
839
SmokeyMcBlazer said:
i just googled around a bit and white smoke could also be burning antifreeze. I think that would apply more to your situation...
I haven't seen any signs of that yet
 

Gerbil21

Original poster
Member
May 28, 2014
839
Playsinsnow said:
A lot of info already posted... white smoke can be cold start, internal coolant leak to warped/cracked head. Check fluids and monitor. No codes and drives fine? Have someone follow you on a ten mile drive just to watch the exhaust :twocents:

http://gmtnation.com/forums/topic/2224-how-to-clean-the-camshaft-position-actuator-solenoid-cpas-picture-heavy/
It Is white on cold start but it goes away that big smoke only happens sometimes my dad said he drove it hard and it happened but so far not again

Compression test tomorrow should show something

It has p0014 also I know how to remove Cpas, it's just that this one is stuck we tried pb blaster and tried prying it out with a screwdriver between the head and Cpas but nothing
 

Gerbil21

Original poster
Member
May 28, 2014
839
OK well we did the oil change and filter yesterday, we were not able to do compression check even thought. But I don't think we do need to since vacuum was good but maybe I'm wrong either way we can't do anything since were having a blizzard.

Also we used valvoline high milage part-synthetic.

One other thing is that we took off the resonator and there was water in it, I have no idea how water got in but I cleaned it out and also cleaned the pcv tube that had some condensation mixed oil
 

littleblazer

Member
Jul 6, 2014
9,265
Gerbil21 said:
OK well we did the oil change and filter yesterday, we were not able to do compression check even thought. But I don't think we do need to since vacuum was good but maybe I'm wrong either way we can't do anything since were having a blizzard.

Also we used valvoline high milage part-synthetic.

One other thing is that we took off the resonator and there was water in it, I have no idea how water got in but I cleaned it out and also cleaned the pcv tube that had some condensation mixed oil
Condensation is a byproduct of combustion.... most noticeable when its cold out so that is probably why it was in the resonator. Condensation in the PCV tube isn't necessarily a bad thing, hot air cooling would do that. And vacuum means noting, 5 good cylinders at idle and one that's a little lame will still show decent vacuum, compression tests will tell you right away if it's shot... The big smoke when getting on it is generally the carbon being blown out of the exhaust, it will be a thin wide spread cloud under hi rpm fast revving then go away. Blue smoke is generally oil, think two stroke. I'm not a mechanic, but if it's not leaking it and you can't smell a sweet smell (antifreeze) then it's burning the oil. It takes a lot of oil to see blue smoke but you need compression numbers to rule out it burning oil. Sorry if I came off a bit aggressive. :frown:
 

Gerbil21

Original poster
Member
May 28, 2014
839
littleblazer said:
Condensation is a byproduct of combustion.... most noticeable when its cold out so that is probably why it was in the resonator. Condensation in the PCV tube isn't necessarily a bad thing, hot air cooling would do that. And vacuum means noting, 5 good cylinders at idle and one that's a little lame will still show decent vacuum, compression tests will tell you right away if it's shot... The big smoke when getting on it is generally the carbon being blown out of the exhaust, it will be a thin wide spread cloud under hi rpm fast revving then go away. Blue smoke is generally oil, think two stroke. I'm not a mechanic, but if it's not leaking it and you can't smell a sweet smell (antifreeze) then it's burning the oil. It takes a lot of oil to see blue smoke but you need compression numbers to rule out it burning oil. Sorry if I came off a bit aggressive. :frown:
no you didn't come off as aggressive at all. thanks for the tips on what to look for we will be doing a compression check and checking the plugs whenever we can which maybe next week with this snow. also i have some acdelco x-66p so using that will definitely clean any carbon out.
 

littleblazer

Member
Jul 6, 2014
9,265
Gerbil21 said:
no you didn't come off as aggressive at all. thanks for the tips on what to look for we will be doing a compression check and checking the plugs whenever we can which maybe next week with this snow. also i have some acdelco x-66p so using that will definitely clean any carbon out.
Just as a heads up, if that's for the top end to clean out the combustion chamber, it could compound your problem if it is leaking rings, the carbon that may be built up and then removed could decrease the tolerances in turn burning more oil. However that is extremely unlikely. I'm going to bet on a cylinder with weaker compression, but it used 5 quarts in 2k, if I read correctly? If that is the case you would know if it was burning oil. (back of the car would have either black dots all over it or a slime build up or something, or it would be all over the people following the vehicle) Mine burns a little mobil 1, like less then half a quart over 7.5k. I hope you get to the bottom of your brothers issue. It's just there aren't too many places for oil to just vanish, unless it has detergents in it like marvel or sea foam, in which case there would have to be more of it than oil and it would've evaporated. Did you check the intake resonator to see if there was oil in it, caused by blow by, so weak compression, at least i think that's where it would go...
 

Gerbil21

Original poster
Member
May 28, 2014
839
littleblazer said:
Just as a heads up, if that's for the top end to clean out the combustion chamber, it could compound your problem if it is leaking rings, the carbon that may be built up and then removed could decrease the tolerances in turn burning more oil. However that is extremely unlikely. I'm going to bet on a cylinder with weaker compression, but it used 5 quarts in 2k, if I read correctly? If that is the case you would know if it was burning oil. (back of the car would have either black dots all over it or a slime build up or something, or it would be all over the people following the vehicle) Mine burns a little mobil 1, like less then half a quart over 7.5k. I hope you get to the bottom of your brothers issue. It's just there aren't too many places for oil to just vanish, unless it has detergents in it like marvel or sea foam, in which case there would have to be more of it than oil and it would've evaporated. Did you check the intake resonator to see if there was oil in it, caused by blow by, so weak compression, at least i think that's where it would go...
there was only some oil in the resonator but im shure that is just from when the car is off and the oil is misty and it comes up the pcv.

also thanks again but yes i know not to use the x66p (which is a top end cleaner) until i do the compression check since i also have a endoscope camera to look in the cylinders which should be interesting. but yes i have heard of leaking rings being sealed by carbon deposits so we are definitely going to be careful with that.
 
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Mooseman

Moderator
Dec 4, 2011
25,257
Ottawa, ON
You have to do a compression check regardless of vacuum readings. At the same time, look at the plugs for either oil contamination and/or burning coolant, which will look like a new super clean plug. Compression check will give an overall view of the condition of the engine.

For the CPAS, after removing the bolt, you should be able to twist it within the head and wiggle it out. It it's not turning, try to gently use some pliers on the body of the CPAS. If PBBlaster doesn't work, try a mix of half and half acetone and tranny fluid in an oil can. Another one I like is the new WD40 Rust Remover. Aluminum and steel tends to corrode to each other.
 

littleblazer

Member
Jul 6, 2014
9,265
Gerbil21 said:
there was only some oil in the resonator but im shure that is just from when the car is off and the oil is misty and it comes up the pcv.

also thanks again but yes i know not to use the x66p (which is a top end cleaner) until i do the compression check since i also have a endoscope camera to look in the cylinders which should be interesting. but yes i have heard of leaking rings being sealed by carbon deposits so we are definitely going to be careful with that.
Just checking. But in the actual resonator would lead me to believe that there is some blow by (Just guesstimating here but it's usually from loose/worn rings) I'd like to see the compression numbers before I go assuming though.
 

Gerbil21

Original poster
Member
May 28, 2014
839
littleblazer said:
Just checking. But in the actual resonator would lead me to believe that there is some blow by (Just guesstimating here but it's usually from loose/worn rings) I'd like to see the compression numbers before I go assuming though.
from the amount i saw im guessing it was just condensation and oil gasses but the compression check will definity show

Mooseman said:
You have to do a compression check regardless of vacuum readings. At the same time, look at the plugs for either oil contamination and/or burning coolant, which will look like a new super clean plug. Compression check will give an overall view of the condition of the engine.

For the CPAS, after removing the bolt, you should be able to twist it within the head and wiggle it out. It it's not turning, try to gently use some pliers on the body of the CPAS. If PBBlaster doesn't work, try a mix of half and half acetone and tranny fluid in an oil can. Another one I like is the new WD40 Rust Remover. Aluminum and steel tends to corrode to each other.
iirc last month i had pulled one plug and it looked slightly white but good which could just be from ethanol.

also the cpas is really stuck pb blaster did nothing, and trying to pull it didn't help either. but after clearing the code it has yet to come back i'm shure it cant do it job with 2 quarts of oil so it makes sense why the cel came up.
 
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Gerbil21

Original poster
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May 28, 2014
839
Checked the oil today and saw this on the cap. smelled like oil, and the coolant level is the same. Also oil level is low on the dipstick. We will try to do the compression check next week
 

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