About a month ago I was having a problem where on the first cold start drive in the morning the truck would not run well. Basically it would shift badly and seemingly have no power to move forward though the engine would somewhat rev, so I thought it was a failing transmission and had the transmission fluid+filter changed. It still did it, so I added K&W TransX and the issue seemed to get much better. The truck did still seem slightly slower in the morning than what I deemed to be normal but I didn't think much of it up until now. Last week the water pump went out. It pissed coolant everywhere, but the failure seemed to happen as I was just arriving at my destination so I don't think it overheated - the gauge never went above normal. I had it towed to the shop and the water pump replaced twice (the first one was defective). Well, I don't know if that has anything to do with it, but worth mentioning, because ever since my issue has come back and it's worse than ever. When the truck is cold in the morning it just falls flat on its face when I try to merge into traffic from my parking lot. By the time I get to work it's warmed up and it runs better but still not like I would expect. It seems a bit down on power, and it intermittently idles really low/rough to the point at which I thought it would stall out (but it didn't). While I know the MIL works as it shows up when the key is turned on, it's never gone on by itself. I have a reasonably advanced Bosch scantool. All modules show no codes of any type. Everything looks to be alright, but my coolant temp seemed to hang at 194 when the truck warmed up. I change the coolant temp sensor (the one at the front where the thermostat is) and now it actually fluctuates, but it's still in the range of 19x-20x when warmed up. Fuel trims are close to +10 at most times. I checked the throttle position sensor, and while it seems alright, there were some small dips in the graph, so I have a new one ready to put in tomorrow. The other thing the "CMP Retard" ranges between -11 and -10. I've heard that anything outside of +/-11 will set a code but that the real spec is +/-2. Could that cause my problem, or do I just have a host of issues all coming together to make my 'burb run like a turd? bad tps, bad timing, bad ect, bad transmission... Thank you for any advice/suggestions on what to check and how to proceed.