08 Trailblazer DIY Alarm

addohm

Original poster
Member
Jun 15, 2012
38
I've got a Scytek Galaxy 5000 as a gift. I want to say that the install is probably easy, and that it looks more cumbersome than it is, but I don't have any experience installing car alarms. Is there any advice, guides, etc?

Are there anything else I need than just the alarm kit?

Thanks!
 

blazinlow89

Member
Jan 25, 2012
2,088
http://gmtnation.com/f36/alarm-remote-start-questions-1636/

This was for a different alarm but should help you figure out where some stuff goes. I cannot comment on major differences between the 04 and the 08 though. It really is not a hard install though, most of my time was spent splicing the wires correctly and making sure it all worked.

You will also need a bypass module, which will depend on what options you want.

I will say that I installed one of the Scytek alarms in a friends Ram. It gave him nothing but problems. Install was correct, had to do some fancy stuff with relays and resistors. It worked perfectly with the alarm side. RS gave out some issues with cutting off after starting. Had to go to a different bypass module which solved that issue but created another. After some research we pulled it. He switched to an upgraded version of mine, which worked with no issues. I cracked the case open on the Scytek and found out it was corroded to hell, not sure how or why it was in for 3 months.

I think alot of his problems though was the CANBUS system and some other things with the Rams.
 

addohm

Original poster
Member
Jun 15, 2012
38
blazinlow89 said:
http://gmtnation.com/f36/alarm-remote-start-questions-1636/

This was for a different alarm but should help you figure out where some stuff goes. I cannot comment on major differences between the 04 and the 08 though. It really is not a hard install though, most of my time was spent splicing the wires correctly and making sure it all worked.

You will also need a bypass module, which will depend on what options you want.

I will say that I installed one of the Scytek alarms in a friends Ram. It gave him nothing but problems. Install was correct, had to do some fancy stuff with relays and resistors. It worked perfectly with the alarm side. RS gave out some issues with cutting off after starting. Had to go to a different bypass module which solved that issue but created another. After some research we pulled it. He switched to an upgraded version of mine, which worked with no issues. I cracked the case open on the Scytek and found out it was corroded to hell, not sure how or why it was in for 3 months.

I think alot of his problems though was the CANBUS system and some other things with the Rams.

Bypass module?

Is this one? It doesn't call itself a bypass module but I've seen many mentions of it, and looks like it provides a central location for some inputs\outputs so that I don't have to go wire chasing.

DL-GM51

Flashlogic - FLCAN

Thanks
 

blazinlow89

Member
Jan 25, 2012
2,088
Yes that is a bypass module.

This is the one I used

XPressKit GMDLBP Door Lock, Alarm, Transponder PassLock Interface

However you might want to see what you want based on features. Some let you control other things, while others like the GMDLBP are just basic. I will say the one we used on the RAM was a fortin and had great instructions and was easy to install. However customer service was terrible, I called to ask some questions and they could not answer a single one, let alone I could barely understand the guy (I'm usually pretty good with different dialects too).

XPressKit seems to be the standard, however if you can find one that has a serial feature it will cut back on wiring.
 

addohm

Original poster
Member
Jun 15, 2012
38
blazinlow89 said:
Yes that is a bypass module.

This is the one I used

XPressKit GMDLBP Door Lock, Alarm, Transponder PassLock Interface

However you might want to see what you want based on features. Some let you control other things, while others like the GMDLBP are just basic. I will say the one we used on the RAM was a fortin and had great instructions and was easy to install. However customer service was terrible, I called to ask some questions and they could not answer a single one, let alone I could barely understand the guy (I'm usually pretty good with different dialects too).

XPressKit seems to be the standard, however if you can find one that has a serial feature it will cut back on wiring.

The reason I went with a Scytek Galaxy 5000 is because that is what we had installed on my ex-wife's vehicle. It was full featured and we never had a problem with it. Different vehicle though ('01 Yota Rav4), so who knows.

Do you know of any with a serial port? Call me lazy, but I'll pay to have to do less wiring haha.

What is the best way to handle the antenna? The one installed on my ex-wifes bitch-box was mounted right behind the rear view. That would mean they would have had to pull down the interior roof I think. Sounds like a huge hassle considering I have a sunroof and dvd player mounted to the roof as well.
 

blazinlow89

Member
Jan 25, 2012
2,088
From some quick looking it sound like idatalink modules are direct data plug in compatible with the Scytek alarms. However I have not been able to find an install sheet for the Scytek. I can do some research into it but it wont be until later today. If you want to look around, iDatalink - Home is the module site. I keep getting errors from Scyteks site though.

AS for the antenna, mine is mounted right behind the mirror, right next to the mic for my bluetooth. If you pull the driver side A-pillar cover off, run the wire behind that you can tuck the wire into the roof between the headliner and the windshield. When I did mine I found where I wanted the antenna, cleaned the glass and stuck it on. Then I began pushing the wire in between the windshield and headliner. When I got to the a-pillar area I pulled the wire towards the back of the vehicle to get the wire to kind of pull into the headliner a bit. Make sure you hold the end near the antenna too or else you will just pull it out. I then ran it down the a-pillar channel and into the dash.

Like I said I think alot of his problems had to do with the CANBUS system in his truck and the bypass module. It was pretty badass to check the location with his phone though.
 

addohm

Original poster
Member
Jun 15, 2012
38
blazinlow89 said:
From some quick looking it sound like idatalink modules are direct data plug in compatible with the Scytek alarms. However I have not been able to find an install sheet for the Scytek. I can do some research into it but it wont be until later today. If you want to look around, iDatalink - Home is the module site. I keep getting errors from Scyteks site though.

AS for the antenna, mine is mounted right behind the mirror, right next to the mic for my bluetooth. If you pull the driver side A-pillar cover off, run the wire behind that you can tuck the wire into the roof between the headliner and the windshield. When I did mine I found where I wanted the antenna, cleaned the glass and stuck it on. Then I began pushing the wire in between the windshield and headliner. When I got to the a-pillar area I pulled the wire towards the back of the vehicle to get the wire to kind of pull into the headliner a bit. Make sure you hold the end near the antenna too or else you will just pull it out. I then ran it down the a-pillar channel and into the dash.

Like I said I think alot of his problems had to do with the CANBUS system in his truck and the bypass module. It was pretty badass to check the location with his phone though.

I downloaded the manual last night, I can post a link or attachment when I get home.
 

blazinlow89

Member
Jan 25, 2012
2,088
Yeah post the link you used. I used the website before to get the instructions when I did the Ram. Every time I click the link on the page the screen just says error. However I could get the operating instructions up from a lot of places.
 

addohm

Original poster
Member
Jun 15, 2012
38
Between iDatalink and FlashLogic, they're both identical. The web site is even identical pretty much. So I went ahead and searched for both on ebay and found an FLCAN for super cheap, so I will end up with the FlashLogic...not that it makes a difference. :smile:
 

blazinlow89

Member
Jan 25, 2012
2,088
Sorry for not getting back after looking at the install manual. I forgot the install info was with the user guide.

However it says nothing about having a direct wiring harness to the bypass. Even then its only a few wires that you need to connect.
 

addohm

Original poster
Member
Jun 15, 2012
38
blazinlow89 said:
Sorry for not getting back after looking at the install manual. I forgot the install info was with the user guide.

However it says nothing about having a direct wiring harness to the bypass. Even then its only a few wires that you need to connect.

Is there perhaps a list already made of what wire\color and where it's located for our vehicles? If not, if I make a list, could you help me complete it?

Also, the bypass module shows the OBD2 Data wire going into the front of the OBD2 plug. It doesn't matter if I just splice into the wire behind the plug does it?
 

blazinlow89

Member
Jan 25, 2012
2,088
Check the thread I listed from my install. A lot of the wires are listed in there, if you wait until I get home I can PM you some helpful info.

Tap in behind the connector, damn installers are getting lazy if they are just pushing then wire into the harness. Also make sure you run separate power wires and a single ground if possible.
 

addohm

Original poster
Member
Jun 15, 2012
38
6-Pin Starter Harness
Pin 1 RED WIRE A: Main Power Input A (+). Connect to the battery or constant power wire at the ignition
switch with a minimum 25 Amp supply. Remove the fuse until the installation is complete and all wiring
is checked.
Pin 2 RED WIRE B: Main Power Input B (+). Connect to the battery or constant power wire at the ignition
switch with a minimum 25A supply. Note: if connecting at the ignition switch it is highly recommended
to use separate power wires for each Red wire, each with a minimum 25A supply. Remove the fuse
until the installation is completed and all wiring is checked.
Pin 3 BROWN WIRE: Second Ignition Output (+). The Brown wire provides +12V for a second ignition
wire. This wire may instead be programmed for use as a second accessory or second starter wire.
Pin 4 ORANGE WIRE: Accessory Output (+). Connect to the accessory wire coming from the ignition
switch that supplies power to the heater/air-conditioner. Some cars may have multiple accessory wires.
Pin 5 YELLOW WIRE: Ignition Output (+). Connect to the main ignition wire that provides +12V when the
ignition is on and while cranking the starter.
Pin 6 VIOLET WIRE: Starter Output (+). Connect to the the vehicle’s starter wire.
20-Pin Main Harness
Pin 1 GREEN/WHITE WIRE: Brake Input (+). Connect to the wire that shows +12V when pressing the
brake. The Green/white wire is a safety shutdown wire that must be connected.
Pin 2 BLACK/GRAY WIRE: Tach Input. Connect to the vehicle’s tach wire or a fuel injector wire if the
tachless mode does not provide satisfactory operation.
Pin 3 WHITE/RED WIRE: Auxiliary 2 Output (-) 500 mA. Connect to a relay or module for an optional
feature such as power window activation, etc. This output may be programmed for momentary, timed,
or latched operation.
Pin 4 BLACK/WHITE WIRE: Dome Light Output (-) 500 mA. Connect to the wire that activates the
vehicle’s dome light, usually the door pin switch wire (see Green and Violet door trigger wires). Note:
MUST USE RELAY(see page 26)
Pin 5 YELLOW WIRE: +12V Ignition Input. The Yellow wire must connect to a main ignition wire at the
ignition harness. This wire must show +12V when the ignition is on and while cranking the starter. The
voltage must not drop when the car is starting.
Pin 6 BLUE/YELLOW WIRE: Glow Plug Input (+). For vehicles equipped with diesel engines the
Blue/yellow wire must be connected to the wait-to-start light in the gauge panel. This wire will show
+12V when the light is on, and ground when the light turns off. If the wait-to-start wire shows ground
when the light is on, a relay must be installed (see wiring diagrams).
Pin 7 BLUE/WHITE WIRE: Passenger Unlock Output (-) 500 mA. Connect to a relay to unlock the
passenger doors when the system is configured for Driver Priority Unlocking.
Pin 8 BLUE/ORANGE WIRE: Ground When Running Output (-) 500 mA. Connect to an optional factory
security bypass module if required Or to a clutch switch bypass relay pin#86 for manual
transmissions
Pin 9 BLACK WIRE: Ground Input (-). The Black wire must connect to a solid chassis ground. Clean away
any paint or dirt to insure the best possible ground.
Pin 10 RED WIRE: Module Power Input (+). Connect to a constant source of +12V.
Page 20 - Galaxy 5000RS
Pin 11 VIOLET WIRE: Positive Door Input (+). Connect to the door switch circuit wire that shows +12V
when the door is open. This type of door circuit is usually found on Ford vehicles.
Pin 12 GREEN WIRE: Negative Door Input (-). Connect to the door switch circuit wire that shows ground
when the door is open.
Pin 13 WHITE/BLACK WIRE: Hood/Trunk Pin Input (-). Connect the to the hood/trunk pin switch. The
switch must provide a ground output when switch is opened.
Pin 14 ORANGE WIRE: Armed Output (-) 500 mA. The Orange wire provides a ground output while armed
to activate a relay for starter defeat and anti-grind protection or window rollup module.
Pin 15 VIOLET/WHITE WIRE: Factory Disarm Output (-) 500 mA. The Violet/white wire provides a ground
output on disarming and before remote starting to disarm a factory security system. Connect to the
wire that requires a ground pulse to disarm the factory security system.
Pin 16 WHITE/VIOLET WIRE: Auxiliary 3 / Factory Rearm Output (-) 500 mA. White/violet wire
Auxiliary 3: Momentary output when channel is activated.
Factory Rearm Output: provides a ground output on remote start shutdown to rearm a factory security
system. Connect to the wire that requires a ground pulse to rearm the factory security system.
Pin 17 BROWN WIRE: Siren Output (+) 3A. The Brown wire must connect to the siren’s red wire. The Black
siren wire must be grounded.
Pin 18 GRAY WIRE: Auxiliary 1 Output (-) 500 mA. Connect to a relay for an optional feature such as trunk
release, etc. This output may be programmed for momentary, timed, or latched operation.*
Pin 19 WHITE WIRE: Parking Light Output (+/-) relay. Connect the White wire to the circuit that shows
+12V or ground only when the parking lights are on and set the internal parking light relay jumper to
the proper polarity. For parking light circuits exceeding 10 amps, a relay is required. For vehicle’s with
independent left and right parking light circuits, diodes must be installed to keep the circuits separate.
NOTE: Do not connect the WHITE wire directly to the vehicle’s headlight circuit.
Pin 20 BROWN/WHITE WIRE: Horn Output (-) 500 mA. Connect to a relay to activate the vehicle’s horn
when the alarm is triggered. This wire may instead be programmed as an ignition 3 relay trigger.
Plug-in Connectors
4-Pin White Connector: Dual stage shock sensor port.( Can Also be used for optional Sensor, Radar, Glass, etc)
· WHITE WIRE: (-)Warn-Away Input For Optional Sensor.
· BLUE WIRE: (-)Trigger Input For Optional Sensor.
· RED WIRE: (+) 12 volt Output For Optional Sensor.
· BLACK WIRE: (-) Ground Output For Optional Sensor.
2-Pin Blue Connector: Valet switch port.Mount program switch in an area that is easily accessible from the driver’s
position.
2-Pin Red Connector: LED port. Mount LED in an area where it may be easily seen from either side of the vehicle.
3-Pin White Door Lock Connector: Door lock port.
· BLUE WIRE - negative unlock output (-) 500mA.
· GREEN WIRE - negative lock output (-) 500mA.
3-Pin Blue Connector: The plug-in network connector port is located on the side of the main module. This network
port may be used with the optional personal computer interface or Pocket PC for diagnostics, software customization and
expanded programming options. The network also offers connection to several optional accessories. See your dealer for
more information.
Galaxy 5000RS - Page 21
2-Pin White Connector: Located on the side of the main module.
· Green WIRE - Parking Brake Input (-) For Manual Transmission and/or vehicles equipped with a turbo charged engine.
Must be connected if using the Turbo Timer feature and/or Manual Transmission remote start feature.
· Blue WIRE -
Turbo Timer cancel input for Manual transmission systems in Turbo Timer mode.
(this feature allows the the turbo timer feature to be temporarilly canceled for remote start applications on manual
transmission vehicles) A seperate push button switch wired to GROUND is needed.
To temporarily bypass the turbo timer in order to perform the remote start procedure for manual transmissions:
With the engine running, apply the parking brake then push the remote start button on transmitter, lights will flash
twice. Turn off the ignition, the engine will stay running. Now push and release the button on the push switch, the
siren will chirp once. The Turbo Timer feature is now canceled. Open and close the door, engine will shut down.
Vehicle is now ready for remote start.
 

addohm

Original poster
Member
Jun 15, 2012
38
blazinlow89 said:
Check the thread I listed from my install. A lot of the wires are listed in there, if you wait until I get home I can PM you some helpful info.



Tap in behind the connector, damn installers are getting lazy if they are just pushing then wire into the harness. Also make sure you run separate power wires and a single ground if possible.

Is data more or less reliable than hard wired? If I do data, all I need to do us wire in power and ground? Freakin bypass module instruction is shit. Had to send it back where I bought it I get flashed to, such an annoyance lol
 

blazinlow89

Member
Jan 25, 2012
2,088
I've been running mine through the data wire since I installed it, been over a year with no issues.
 

addohm

Original poster
Member
Jun 15, 2012
38
I need help with what wires to connect, and where to connect them. I already have the underside of my steering wheel plastics pulled out. I've already ran the cable for the receiver that attaches to the windshield. I've already mounted the hood pin and ran the wire to underneath the steering wheel. I've already done the same with the siren. My problem is that the prints I have are not very well laid out (or I should say not standardized), and I would really just rather get this done right on the first shot. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Adam
 

addohm

Original poster
Member
Jun 15, 2012
38
The diagram for the truck I got off of these forums, they confuse and fluster me.
 

addohm

Original poster
Member
Jun 15, 2012
38
What I have so far:

Code:
6-Pin Starter Harness
Pin 1 RED WIRE A: Main Power Input A (+). 
Pin 2 RED WIRE B: Main Power Input B (+). 
Pin 4 ORANGE WIRE: Accessory Output (+). 
Pin 5 YELLOW WIRE: Ignition Output (+). 
Pin 6 VIOLET WIRE: Starter Output (+). 

20-Pin Main Harness
Pin 1 GREEN/WHITE WIRE: Brake Input (+). [COLOR="#0000FF"]Find brake switch for (+) when pressed[/COLOR]
Pin 2 BLACK/GRAY WIRE: [COLOR="#FF0000"]Tach (AC) Output on Bypass Module [Purple\White][/COLOR]
Pin 3 WHITE/RED WIRE: Auxiliary 2 Output (-) 500 mA. 
Pin 4 BLACK/WHITE WIRE: Dome Light Output (-) 500 mA. [COLOR="#0000FF"]Connect to the wire that activates the
vehicle’s dome light, usually the door pin switch wire (see Green and Violet door trigger wires). Note:
MUST USE RELAY(see page 26)[/COLOR]
Pin 5 YELLOW WIRE: [COLOR="#FF0000"]Tied in with Ignition (+) Input on Bypass Module [Pink][/COLOR]
Pin 6 BLUE/YELLOW WIRE: Glow Plug Input (+). [COLOR="#00FF00"]N/A[/COLOR]
Pin 7 BLUE/WHITE WIRE: Passenger Unlock Output (-) 500 mA. 
Pin 8 BLUE/ORANGE WIRE: Ground When Running Output (-) 500 mA. [COLOR="#FF0000"]Ground When Running (-) Input on Bypass Module [Blue\White][/COLOR] 
Pin 9 BLACK WIRE: Ground Input (-). [COLOR="#FF0000"]Tied in with Ground (-) on Bypass Module [Black] & Siren (-) [Black][/COLOR]
Pin 10 RED WIRE: Module Power Input (+). [COLOR="#FF0000"]Tied in with 12V (+) on Bypass Module [Red][/COLOR]
Pin 11 VIOLET WIRE: Positive Door Input (+). [COLOR="#00FF00"]N/A[/COLOR]
Pin 12 GREEN WIRE: Negative Door Input (-). [COLOR="#FF0000"]Door Status (-) Output on Bypass Module [Yellow\Black][/COLOR]
Pin 13 WHITE/BLACK WIRE: Hood/Trunk Pin Input (-). [COLOR="#FF0000"]Hood Pin (-) Input [White] & Trunk Status (-) Output [Yellow\Red][/COLOR]
Pin 14 ORANGE WIRE: Armed Output (-) 500 mA. [COLOR="#0000FF"]Starter Defeat\Anti Grind???[/COLOR]
Pin 15 VIOLET/WHITE WIRE: Factory Disarm Output (-) 500 mA. ??? [COLOR="#FF0000"]Disarm Only (-) Input on Bypass Module [Brown][/COLOR]???
Pin 16 WHITE/VIOLET WIRE: Auxiliary 3 / Factory Rearm Output (-) 500 mA. 
Pin 17 BROWN WIRE: Siren Output (+) 3A. [COLOR="#FF0000"]Siren (+) [Red] [/COLOR]
Pin 18 GRAY WIRE: Auxiliary 1 Output (-) 500mA.
Pin 19 WHITE WIRE: Parking Light Output (+/-) Relay. [COLOR="#0000FF"]Parking Lamp Relay.  Change jumper for (-) if not default (+).[/COLOR]
Pin 20 BROWN/WHITE WIRE: Horn Output (-) 500mA. [COLOR="#0000FF"]Horn Relay[/COLOR]

Plug-in Connectors
4-Pin White Connector: [COLOR="#0000FF"]Dual stage shock sensor port.[/COLOR]
2-Pin Blue Connector: Valet switch port.
2-Pin Red Connector: LED port. 
3-Pin White Door Lock Connector: Door lock port.
[COLOR="#0000FF"]· BLUE WIRE - negative unlock output (-) 500mA.
· GREEN WIRE - negative lock output (-) 500mA.[/COLOR]
3-Pin Blue Connector: N/A
2-Pin White Connector: N/A

Bypass Module I/O

Tach (AC) Output:
Right Sliding Door Input (-):
Left Sliding Door Input (-):
Disarm Only Input (-):
Trunk Input (-):
Unlock Input (-):
Lock Input (-):
12V (+):
Ground (-):
Ground When Running Input (-):
Ignition Input (+):
Trunk Status Output (-):
Door Status Output (-):
Data (J1850): OBD2 Pin 2

Any help to complete this list would be :bow: worthy!
 

blazinlow89

Member
Jan 25, 2012
2,088
What do each of the colors represent? I am at work now but can look through quickly when I get home to see what I can help you with. Honestly May was a huge help to me with the wiring.

- - - Updated - - -

What do each of the colors represent? I am at work now but can look through quickly when I get home to see what I can help you with. Honestly May was a huge help to me with the wiring.
 

addohm

Original poster
Member
Jun 15, 2012
38
blazinlow89 said:
What do each of the colors represent? I am at work now but can look through quickly when I get home to see what I can help you with. Honestly May was a huge help to me with the wiring.

But after having done it you're far more familiar than some who hasn't :wink: I would just ignore the colors tbh. Red ones are ones that I am pretty sure are right. Blue ones are just notes to myself. Green ones are ones I don't need to worry about.
 

addohm

Original poster
Member
Jun 15, 2012
38
blazinlow89 said:
I've been running mine through the data wire since I installed it, been over a year with no issues.

If you use the OBD2 connection, do you need to run any of the other wires (except obviously ground\power)?
 

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