So I've got my transmission rebuilt and nothing in it actually failed. It was removed at high mileage but was completely operational when pulled. No filings in the pan or fluid.
So I want to avoid spending $430Cdn on a rebuilt torque converter by cleaning and reusing the one that came out with it.
When I read my old 1980 factory GM manual for my Olds 350 it says if there is no filings then just clean and replace the TC:
Converter Replacement
A converter should be replaced only if one of the following conditions exist:
1. The front oil cover or body are badly scored.
This results in having cast iron grindings entering the
converter and the oil circuit.
2. "Aluminized" oil in the converter. This comes as a
result of internal converter failure.
3. End play in the converter exceeds .05OW.
4. External leaks
5. A scored or damaged hub which could cause front
seal failure or front pump bushing failure.
6. A broken, damaged or bad fitting converter
crankshaft pilot.
7. The converter is off balance which results in a
vibration that cannot be corrected.
A converter should not be replaced for any of the
following conditions:
1. The oil has an odor, is discolored and there is no
evidence of metal particles.
2. The oil cooler was defective, allowing engine coolant
to enter the transmission. To correct this, refer to converter
flushing procedure in this section.
3. A small amount of wear appears on the hub where
the oil pump drive gear locates. A certain amount of such
wear is normal for both the hub and oil pump gear.
4. The threads in one or more of the three converter
bolt holes are damaged. Correct such conditions with the
use of a Heli-coil or its equivalent.
The manual then goes onto detail how to drill a 1/8" hole and flush the TC and then seal it back up with a closed end pop rivet.
I can go one step further since I have a mig welder.
Has anyone done this? drill a hole, flush it out and then just weld the hole back up?
So I want to avoid spending $430Cdn on a rebuilt torque converter by cleaning and reusing the one that came out with it.
When I read my old 1980 factory GM manual for my Olds 350 it says if there is no filings then just clean and replace the TC:
Converter Replacement
A converter should be replaced only if one of the following conditions exist:
1. The front oil cover or body are badly scored.
This results in having cast iron grindings entering the
converter and the oil circuit.
2. "Aluminized" oil in the converter. This comes as a
result of internal converter failure.
3. End play in the converter exceeds .05OW.
4. External leaks
5. A scored or damaged hub which could cause front
seal failure or front pump bushing failure.
6. A broken, damaged or bad fitting converter
crankshaft pilot.
7. The converter is off balance which results in a
vibration that cannot be corrected.
A converter should not be replaced for any of the
following conditions:
1. The oil has an odor, is discolored and there is no
evidence of metal particles.
2. The oil cooler was defective, allowing engine coolant
to enter the transmission. To correct this, refer to converter
flushing procedure in this section.
3. A small amount of wear appears on the hub where
the oil pump drive gear locates. A certain amount of such
wear is normal for both the hub and oil pump gear.
4. The threads in one or more of the three converter
bolt holes are damaged. Correct such conditions with the
use of a Heli-coil or its equivalent.
The manual then goes onto detail how to drill a 1/8" hole and flush the TC and then seal it back up with a closed end pop rivet.
I can go one step further since I have a mig welder.
Has anyone done this? drill a hole, flush it out and then just weld the hole back up?